Wondering what 2018 will serve us? Friday looks into the crystal bowl.
In the last 12 months, the UAE’s trailblazing culinary scene has given the world the Freakshake, Salt Bae and 5-star cinema dining. As the New Year approaches, Melanie Mingas talks to leading culinary names to discover what will be on the menu in 2018
Food has changed drastically over recent years, influenced by everything from the arrival of a new generation of chefs, to heightened demand for healthier food and so-called ‘obesity’ taxes. For foodies, 2017 was all about kale, avocado and the cutting-edge concept of serving savoury dishes and pre-blended smoothies as ‘bowls’. The New Yorker named 2017’s culinary highlights as breakfast chocolate, raw foods and home cooking, with other magazines saluting mocktails, sea vegetables (aka seaweed) and, in some cases, insects.
In reality, 2017 was far tastier, although primarily driven by the social networking app every chef loves to hate... Instagram.
The year kicked off with Salt Bae, the carnivorous Prima Donna from Istanbul who runs two restaurants in the UAE and four in his native Turkey (with a steakhouse to open in New York this winter). He seasoned the New Year to perfection with footage of his signature, wrist-snapping style and put steak night on the map in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
More than ever, visuals play a big role in a dish’s popularity. Freakshakes – which made their first appearance in Dubai at The Black Lion in 2015, and are a mainstay at New York import Black Tap – are a photogenic drink/dessert mash-up that feature in many a selfie.
According to chef Herve Courtot, chef de cuisine at Nobu Dubai, in 2018, the theme of visual appeal will continue.
He explains: ‘We are fortunate to be in Dubai, a culinary melting pot where you see inspiration and trends from all over the world constantly arriving, from the Instagrammable freakshake to the Hawaiian poke bowl. The region is very quick in responding to global trends and restaurants are always looking to experiment with the new upcoming F&B concepts.’
Poke, a dish of diced raw fish that is served in a bowl (trend tick!) and is very pretty (double trend tick!), came second in the list of most-ordered dishes in Dubai from food delivery service Deliveroo; three poke outlets featured in the top 25.
Pushing the boundaries, Herve’s experiments include a collaboration with Ossiano chef de cuisine Gregoire Berger, with whom Herve created the Four Hands Dinner. A tasting menu of unique dishes, the dinner featured Ossiano spherification; caviar with potato wasabi; oysters in kataifi with yuzu black winter truffle; and tuna tataki with black sesame dressing and Peruvian chilli jelly.
An instant hit, the Four Hands Dinner will soon return, next time with Italian chef and TV star Giorgio Locatelli and his restaurant Ronda Locatelli taking part.
Hinting at what could be on the menu, Herve continues: ‘Black-coloured food has become a huge trend in the UAE, with the use of charcoal or squid ink for example. People are enjoying a typical dish like a burger but with a black bun, or a pizza with a black dough – not to be mistaken for being burnt.’
LOCATION, LOCATION , LOCATION
The best meals aren’t always served in fancy restaurants.
Silver-screen suppers at VOX Cinemas’ GOLD and THEATRE by Rhodes continued to sell out during 2017 – the second full year of operation for the concept.
Looking to 2018, chef Gary Rhodes says: ‘The “easy eating” style seems to be in full flow at present and I can’t see it suddenly taking on a whole new concept. I do feel however, as 2018 develops, there could well be a “double act” of some restaurants serving dishes that hold a minimum quantity of ingredients, although the importance here will be down to the quality of foods available.
‘On the other side, I think the return of fine dining may entertain an audience who are fed up with sharing plates of vinaigrette-finished dishes, instead wanting foods that hold more detail, telling a strong but simple story,’ he continues.
In search of the ultimate all-in-one meal and movie experience, THEATRE will further develop its ‘Taste the Movie’ packages in 2018, themed to new releases or created to reflect the season, such as the quintessentially British three-course menu that was served for Kingsman 2.
Continuing the focus on fine dining, VOX marketing manager Michelle Walsh adds: ‘Customers in the region have an insatiable appetite for unique luxury experiences and, looking ahead to 2018, experiential dining is a concept that we’ll see more of. We believe that in the region, fine dining will always be a trend and we will ensure our menus and quality of service continue to exceed our customer’s expectations.’
For those who prefer their experience to be home-based, 2016 was a game-changer. Consumer spending on food delivery orders in the US exceeded that of grocery spending for the first time. The trend is as strong in the already deliveryfriendly UAE: UberEats joined Deliveroo and Talabat on the scene, and it includes far more than a shawarma or pizza – customers can order from mid- to high-end eateries, too.
Recognising the growing demand, Jumeirah Restaurant Group (JRG) opened the Noodle House Hub in Dubailand, dedicated to home delivery and reaching more than 20 new areas of the emirate.
‘According to Zomato, consumer spend on F&B is now second to rent,’ says JRG general manager Emma Banks. ‘Dining out – and in – is the new after-work drink, with the everpopular social activity becoming an almost daily occurrence, as opposed to a special-occasion event. Home delivery has increased significantly, delivering restaurant-quality dishes not only to homes, but increasingly to offices and workplaces, too. Who knows, with Amazon suggesting the use of drone deliveries, could we be the leaders in implementing that change too?’
THE SUPPER CLUB
With a focus on quality time, as well as quality ingredients, the supper club concept arrived in the UAE around 2012 with the
‘Dining out – and in – is the new after-work drink, with the ever-popular social activity becoming an almost daily occurrence, as opposed to a special-occasion event’
No 57 Dinner Club, adopting the underground party principle, taking diners on mystery tours of the city with meals served in empty swimming pools and even construction sites. (The team behind it have since opened a bricks-and-mortar spot.)
‘There are a growing number of supper clubs in the UK and America, where people go to someone’s house and eat the food they’ve cooked, while enjoying each other’s company in a relaxed environment,’ says DUKES Dubai executive chef Martin Cahill of the trend. ‘Essentially people at home are now very good cooks – the average chef at home is a lot different to what they were a generation or two ago. People don’t mind dehydrating their own vegetables, or growing their own herbs.’
While this is great news for foodies who also don’t mind washing up, it turns up the heat in the kitchen when diners do venture out.
Martin adds: ‘When people visit a restaurant, they expect the food to be even better than they can cook themselves. People now have their own ice cream machines, blenders and deep-fryers at home. They are more adventurous, so when they go out, they want the food to exceed their expectations. That places a lot of pressure on chefs and restaurants.’
HEALTHY FOOD
With obesity levels continuing to rise across the GCC, a number of measures have been introduced to curb the trend, including excise taxes on sugary sodas and energy drinks that were introduced in October. As consumers and diners opt for healthier choices, chefs are changing how they cook.
Bringing healthy food to the region at home and work, Kcal this year launched Atyab – which translates as ‘more delicious’ – a menu of traditional Arabic dishes, developed with health and calorie control in mind.
Kcal founder and co-CEO Mark Carroll explains. ‘To do this we “Kcalize” each dish, transforming a traditional dish we all love into a healthier version, while maintaining the original, authentic taste. Arabs have a special relationship with food – they uphold their recipes as a signifier of their identity and where they come from. However this can often be challenged by their desire to adopt a healthier lifestyle.’
Developed by award-winning chef Osama Al Sayed, the Atyab menu is the UAE’s first health-focused Arabic meal plan, delivering 1,300 calories a day in three meals and two snacks.
‘Almost like a pharmacist, I use the healthiest ingredients to come up with recipes that fit the taste,’ Osama says. ‘Given that we are one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, I can see this influencing beyond Dubai. Italian, Mexican, Chinese and Thai cuisines remain undiscovered for health-conscious diners, so it has a lot of potential and I believe this will be the trend for the next few years, not just 2018.’
Noting a growing demand for healthier options, Martin adds: ‘People are more active. You can see on the Palm in the mornings, there are people paddle boarding, running and swimming, and nutrition goes hand-in-hand with that. Subconsciously, if people have a choice other than deep-fried food, they do make healthier choices.’
New ingredients, flavours, influences, presentation and cooking methods – not to mention growing awareness of the impact of nutrition and diet on lifestyle – have changed food significantly over recent years and there’s more change on the menu next year.
2018 in a nutshell? Swap kale for a healthy kunafah, host a supper club and continue to take lots of pictures.
‘People at home are now very good cooks. When they visit a restaurant, they expect the food to be even better than they can cook themselves’