TRAVEL FACTS

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Grano de Oro (hotelgrano-deoro.com), occupying three wooden buildings from the turn of the 20th century, is a characterful option in the heart of San Jose. Doubles from Dh585.

On the outskirts of San Jose is Xandari Resort And Spa (0091 94474 14344; xandari. com), with fine views of the city, a pool, delightful gardens, and walking trails and waterfalls on its doorstep. Doubles from Dh510.

Tortuga Lodge and Gardens (tortugalodge. com) offers rustic, comfort-able lodges in a dreamy setting, with pool, good restaurant, walking trails and resident iguanas. Doubles from Dh460.

Highlights at Monteverde Lodge (monteverde-lodge.com), run by the same company, include a butterfly garden and jungle views. Doubles from Dh500.

Nayara Resort (arenalnayara.com), in Arenal Volcano National Park, offers first-rate luxury, with private villas, a wonderful spa, restaurants and its own sloth reserve. Doubles from Dh1,000.

Hotel Punta Islita (hotelpuntaislita.com), on the Nicoya Peninsula, is good for beach relaxation. Rooms come with a private outdoor Jacuzzi or plunge pools. Doubles from Dh590.

WHAT TO PACK

Clothes for all weather. Locals joke that it never stops raining in Tortuguero, it can get very hot on the Nicoya peninsula, and it is decidedly chilly in the cloud forests of Monteverde. Binoculars too: your guide will lend you theirs, but far better to have your own.

TRAVEL CHECKS

Oliver Smith travelled with Journey Latin America (020 3131 7374, journey latinamerica.co.uk). A 12-day holiday, including two nights in San Jose, two nights in Tortuguero, two in Monte-verde, two in Arenal and three on the Pacific Coast, costs from Dh6,970pp excluding flights. Other options available; check the website for full details.