Changing travel plans
Why Sofia should replace Santorini on your travel agenda
As flights worldwide have been restricted to only the most necessary, nomads have had to put their roaming on hold for now. But a raft of destinations set to connect Abu Dhabi with Eastern Europe should – at the very least – be noted down for future exploration. In the beginning of May, Wizz Air – the Hungarian low-cost airline – announced it would begin flights to five different destinations, all in Europe. Bucharest and Budapest have been earmarked as the first two destinations available to fly to from Abu Dhabi, with flights expected to launch in June*. But as well as taking in the public baths or Byzantine architecture of the popular capitals, three other cities deserve further consideration. From southern Poland’s Katowice, known as the “city of music”, to the assortment of architectural styles on display in Sofia, or Cluj-Napoca, one of Romania’s most-visited cities, these affordable, interesting cities should be on your radar.
SOFIA, BULGARIA Flight operates from: September 15
Sofia is a city of threes. It is nestled between three mountains: Lyulin, Vitosha and the Balkans; sits between three seas: the Aegean, Black and Adriatic; and is home to grand temples of three major religions: Christianity, Islam and Judaism.
With the city’s mishmash of cultural and geographic influences, there is plenty for tourists to take in. One of the main attractions of the city is its proximity to two ski slopes – Borovets and Bansko are both under two hours’ drive away and have altitudes high enough to guarantee decent snow coverage. Borovets is Bulgaria’s oldest ski resort, discovered by King Ferdinand I in the 19th Century (his palace, Tsarska Bistritsa Palace, can still be visited today). Nowadays it is less illustrious but still diverting, boasting easy and open slopes that many Bulgarians take advantage of over a snowy weekend.
Bansko has an equally historic background, hosting the UNESCO-listed Pirin National Park, as well as a medieval village. The ski town may have established itself as a host of top international winter sports events, but elsewhere lies a plethora of unique sites – from the low-slung doors of Bulgarian Renaissance houses, to a park that has been created specifically to house freed dancing bears.
The footsteps of history tread back to the capital, where the handsome Alexander Nevsky Cathedral stands. Perhaps Sofia’s most illustrious landmark, the gold and teal-domed monument is no less impressive inside, its interiors clad in Brazilian onyx and Indian alabaster. A suitably impressive commemoration to the 200,000 Russian soldiers that died during the 1877 Russo-Turkish War, in whose memory the cathedral was built.
Elsewhere, monuments appear to simply pop up around the city. Commuters hurry past Roman ruins on their way to the metro station; peer beneath the glass domes covering the site to see remnants of 4thcentury basilicas and baths.
Banya Bashi Mosque is also worth a visit, a remnant of the Ottoman rule of Bulgaria and a neighbour of Sofia’s synagogue, which is just one street over.
A whole weekend could be spent delving into the capital’s history, but its modern charms are not to be overlooked. Visit boutiques of contemporary local designers such
as Sassa Björg, whose atelier creates colourful ready-to-wear in natural fabrics, or head to one of the many galleries around the city: National Art Gallery is one of the biggest, housing over 50,000 pieces of Bulgarian art.
As for dining, Sense Hotel has one of the best rooftop bars in the city, while Cosmos elevates traditional Bulgarian cuisine, offering sturgeon with black sea mussels and a vivid Bulgarian rose flambé.
KATOWICE Flight operates from: September 15
Much like the UAE, it was a natural resource that transformed the fortunes of this Southern Polish city. After reserves rich in coal were discovered in the 18th century, steelworks and artisans’ shops transformed the then-village into a bustling hub. Though much of the city was torn down or bombed during the Second World War, remnants of Katowice’s industrial past remain.
Head to the districts of Nikiszowiec or Bogucice to see the red-brick lines of familoki houses, built for the coal miners in the area. Though seemingly uniform, some say they are all designed just a little differently, so that a miner could recognise his house after a long shift.
From the 1920s onwards, architects drew from this tradition of industrial architecture to create new forms of functionalism and modernism. Though the furthest thing from baroque (and often lending the city an unfair reputation as unattractive), their influence can be heavily seen around the city. Look out for the Cloud Scraper – the second skyscraper ever built in Poland and used as a sniper lookout during the Nazi invasion – as well as the truly Seventies inspired Spodek, or “Saucer”.
The satellite-dish shaped arena hosts many musical performances, another string to the city’s bow. Deemed a UNESCO city of music since 2015, the city has an impressive 27 different musical festivals to its belt, from international classical competitions to the electronic stylings of annual festival Tauron Nowa Muzyka.
After reserves rich in coal were discovered in Katowice in the 18th century, steelworks and artisans’ shops transformed the then-village into a bustling hub
Cluj-Napoca’s freewheeling, bohemian atmosphere is perhaps most present in its café culture
Over the last five years, the programme has also helped to create an acoustically pristine performance hall for the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra (NOSPR), itself founded in Warsaw in 1935. The orchestra regularly collaborates with world-class soloists and musicians, from Martha Argerich to Pieter Wispelwey.
Concertgoers may want to round off their evening with some Silesian cuisine, from golabki (cabbage rolls), to placki ziemniaczane – potato pancakes smothered in mushroom sauce. Head to Patio for traditional fare, or ISTO, for a modern take – both restaurants are in the city centre.
Aside from the architectural or the musical, many sightseers will take pleasure in simply wandering around the Main Square, amidst the flower sellers and coffee stands. In summer, locals flock to the square’s artificial river to lie on the sunbeds under palm trees. It is an unexpected charm, like most of Katowice.
CLUJ-NAPOCA Flight operates from: September 16
As the unofficial capital of Transylvania, you’d expect nothing less from Cluj-Napoca (just Cluj, to the locals) – hip, arty, and with just the right amount of mystery.
Built on the banks of the river Someșul Mic, the Romanian city has nature at its heart, surrounded by forest and crisscrossed with a number of streams. But even the parks have unique twists – Central Park, built in 1827, has a casino that now hosts art exhibitions and Hoia-Baciu offers nighttime tours through its so-called haunted forests.
The city is full of these idiosyncrasies, from the wild puppetry at the Puck Theatre to the apothecary at Hintz House, where visitors can see what brave 16th-century patients had to endure.
Architecture is varied, ranging from the Gothic stylings of St Michael’s Church, which dates all the way back to the 14th century, to the baroque-rococo Avram Iancu and Unrii Squares.
Perhaps encouraged by a large student population, cultural offerings (and great coffee) flourish in most corners of the city.
The Transilvania International Film Festival, which typically takes place in September, often draws crowds of over 100,000 viewers keen to see the latest and greatest in Romanian cinema in unique locations across the city.
Art lovers will appreciate Baril, a former paintbrush factory turned contemporary gallery, or Galeria Quadro, which holds paintings by respected Romanian artists including Aurel Ciupe and László Feszt.
The city’s freewheeling, bohemian atmosphere is perhaps most present in its café culture. Q Caffee is a 10-year performance project in the making and – with its psychedelic spaces and allegorical art – has to be seen to be understood.
For the more regular hot brew connoisseur, head to any one of the hip coffee spots around Cluj, from Meron to Sisters or Bujole. All specialise in organic, ethical beans with a talkative ambience; the ideal place to power down a laptop and fully take in this lively, hip city. *Flights are dependent on UAE authorities lifting travel restrictions on passenger services in and out of the country, and are also subject to regulatory approval