Alluring Africa
Salvage your safari plans with a trip to the Mara, and then wind down with a short hop to Zanzibar
MASAI MARA, KENYA
If this is the year you had planned that safari trip of a lifetime to the Masai Mara, the outbreak of Covid-19 and the resulting travel restrictions must have been frustrating. But fret not, there’s a chance you can still salvage your plans.
The draw of the Mara is, of course, the annual animal migration. What people associate with the migration surrounds the spectacle around the Mara river as almost two million wildebeest, gazelles and zebras brave the Nile crocodiles lying in wait to cross the river to the lush greenery on the other side. Thousands are eaten, crushed or drowned in the crossings. Those that do make it to the other side face further peril from lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas and jackals eyeing easy pickings.
However, the migration is not a single event, but a year-wide mass movement of animals within the Masai Mara (Kenya)Serengeti (Tanzania) ecosystem. Those same animals must make the journey south to the Serengeti again. This happens around October-November when rains start falling on the Tanzanian side and the grass is green again.
At this time, you can catch the animals, still in their masses, around southern Masai Mara and northern Serengeti as they make the reverse trip to Tanzania. The sight of over a million animals spread over a landscape as far as the eye can see is one to behold.
The Mara River tends to be lower in October. Herds can be seen splashing easily through the river without having to swim, making themselves vulnerable to the massive Mara crocodiles, who are lazily basking on the river banks having feasted for a couple of months. There are daily river crossings.
At this time, there will be far fewer crowds and it is significantly cheaper. You can witness this phenomenon from a hot air balloon or on a game drive. Accommodation is available in the resorts that dot the reserve as well as neighbouring conservatories.
The Masai Mara National Reserve is a 940-square-kilometre stretch of protected area for wildlife. The Serengeti is even larger at 14,750 square kilometres. Emirates resumed service to Nairobi on August 1.
ZANZIBAR, TANZANIA
Since you are already in East Africa, why not combine your safari with a beach vacation?
Beach vacations in Africa do not get more exotic than Zanzibar, an archipelago 37 kilometres away from mainland Tanzania.
For centuries, Zanzibar acted as a base for traders from the African Lakes region, India and the Arabian Peninsula. The island became a hub for the region’s spice trade. The sultanate of Oman ruled Zanzibar for centuries, and the population is almost entirely Muslim with Swahili being the main language.
Transit to Zanzibar by plane or boat, departing in most cases from Dar es Salaam.
Zanzibar’s long history and influences have created one of Africa’s most interesting cuisines
Choose the ferry as it is cheaper and can be a far more pleasant experience. The highspeed boats run four times a day each way and take about two hours.
Dar airport is on the outskirts of Dar es Salaam and the harbour/ferry port is in the middle of the city. Traffic in the city can be daunting and it could take you two hours or longer by taxi from the airport to the ferry port. The wait will be worth it though.
For the ultimate beach escape, head north to Nungwi and Kendwa, where many all-inclusive resorts are to be found. Go snorkelling or diving in the crystal- clear waters, or, if you prefer staying above the surface, try your hand at kitesurfing.
Although the beaches are gorgeous, you should spend as much time exploring as lying in the sand.
Start with Stone Town, declared a UNESCO cultural heritage site in 2000 – and explore the breathtaking 19th-century architecture of the area. Life passes slowly in Zanzibar so let yourself get lost in the
maze of the town’s winding alleys. Stone Town is small and safe so you’ll find your way home, eventually.
For a sample of local cuisine head to Forodhani Park, or discover how the sultans relaxed at the Hamamni Persia Baths.
Zanzibar’s long history and influences have created one of Africa’s most interesting cuisines combining Indian, Arab, Chinese, Portuguese and African cooking traditions.
African ugali, Indian chapatti, Swahili curries, and of course, fresh seafood. The common denominator is spice (another name for Zanzibar is Spice Islands). Cloves, cinnamon, black pepper and nutmeg are found aplenty.
If you want to try these recipes at home, head to the Darajani market, the main Bazaar, where locals shop for groceries.
Zanzibar also offers a chance to get close and personal with nature. Pick between Zanzibar Butterfly Centre, Mnarani Marine Turtles Conservation Pond or Cheetah’s Rock, an accredited animal rescue and conservation centre, where, as the name suggests, cheetahs and other animals mingle freely with guests. The Kiwengwa Pongwe Forest on the eastern shores of Unguja hosts the Kiwengwa Caves, naturally-created caverns teeming with bats. Kenya Airways has direct flights from Nairobi to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar. Emirates flies directly from Dubai to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar as well.