Gulf News

Why are white undershirt­s still called wife beaters?

Given the torrent of revelation­s of abuse against women in the #MeToo era, the name suddenly seems grossly inappropri­ate

- By Moises Velasquez-Manoff ■ Moises Velasquez-Manoff, the author of An Epidemic of Absence: A New Way of Understand­ing Allergies and Autoimmune Disease, is a contributi­ng opinion writer.

Not long ago, an acquaintan­ce mentioned that her dad wears “wife beaters.” She was referring to the sleeveless, ribbed undershirt also known as an A-shirt. I myself have used the term before — and I’ve worn the shirt plenty — but this time it stopped me cold. Given the torrent of revelation­s of abuse against women in the #MeToo era, the name suddenly seemed grossly inappropri­ate.

We don’t call our pants “child molesters” or our hats “cat mutilators.” We immediatel­y recognise such descriptio­ns as violent and abhorrent. And yet, we somehow overlook the same when we call our shirts wife beaters. How did such a graphicall­y violent term insinuate itself into American slang?

Many cite Marlon Brando’s portrayal of Stanley Kowalski in the movie A Streetcar Named Desire as inspiratio­n for the term. He wears a sleeveless shirt and rages, yells, rapes his sister-inlaw and hits his wife, Stella. Another theory that’s popular in the blogospher­e is that wife beater comes from a case, in 1947, of a Detroit man who beat his wife to death. Photos from the time supposedly showed the man wearing a stained A-shirt. But I could find no evidence of this in news archives. He may be a myth. In any case, what these origin stories fail to explain is why, if the term has its inspiratio­n in the mid-20th century, young people waited until the 1990s to embrace it.

Connie Eble, a linguist at the University of North Carolina who studies American slang, surveys her students periodical­ly for neologisms. The first time a student submitted “wife beater” to describe the shirt was in 1996, she told me in an email. After 2007, students stopped mentioning it, she said, not because it had fallen out of use, but because it was then so widely adopted that no one considered it remarkable. Now it’s sometimes shortened to plain old “beater. ”In 2001, in an article in this newspaper titled An Undershirt Named; What? an Oxford English Dictionary editor was quoted saying that the term had entered the lexicon in part from rap, gay and gang subculture­s. Perhaps. But long before wife beater, the sleeveless undershirt-worn-as-outer garment attracted a malignant sort of attention. In the mid20th century, some called it the “dago tee” or “guinea tee” — offensive epithets directed at Italian immigrants.

Donald Tricarico, a professor of sociology at Queensboro­ugh Community College, told me that the terms hark back to a time when some didn’t consider Italians really to be white. They viewed the sleeveless undershirt as a working-class garment, and someone — or a whole bunch of people — gave it this racialised label as a way to “otherise” Italian immigrants, who were often poor and did manual labour.

Misogyny and racism

Dominique Padurano, an adjunct assistant professor of history at Bronx Community College, speculates that dago tee evolved into wife beater when people realised that overt racism was no longer acceptable. “It’s a way we can still make fun of Italians without saying names like ‘dago’,” she told me.

Yet Italian-Americans are hardly the only ethnicity to favour the shirt. It’s big in the Chicano subculture­s of the Southwest. My uncles in Puerto Rico used to wear it, as does my Korean father-in-law. White people wear it too. And these days, so do pop culture icons, like Hugh Jackman’s Wolverine and Miley Cyrus in her Wrecking Ball video.

In fact, in 2018, it’s difficult to articulate a rule that reliably separates those who wear the A-shirt from those who don’t, beyond a general sense the shirt seems to have been associated with ambiguous whiteness and a blue-collar background.

But is the vilificati­on of working-class men fair? One of the biggest lessons of #MeToo is that men in the upper echelons of society are also capable of violent, coercive behaviour. Consider those accused of abuse: Harvey Weinstein, Eric Schneiderm­an, the former White House aide Rob Porter and the Silicon Valley entreprene­ur Abhishek Gattani.

“People aren’t calling it a wife beater because they believe that beating your wife is OK,” Adam Klein, an assistant professor of communicat­ion studies at Pace University, told me. But the willingnes­s to casually evoke violence against women implies a strange double standard. “We accept misogyny as cool,” he said, even as we know that racism is unacceptab­le.

I suspect that some use wife beater as a kind of fashion voodoo — a way to tap into an imagined working-class male virility. Young Brando was “a beautiful, brooding specimen,” wrote the theatre critic John Lahr — “a ruthless man-child with reservoirs of tenderness and violence. ”His character eschewed khakis and button-downs for jeans and undershirt­s. The idea is that you, too, can become dangerous and attractive by donning a sleeveless shirt. Calling it a wife beater is part of this sartorial spell. But must we be so oblivious to the meaning of what we’re saying? Why not call the shirt a “Brando” or a “Wolverine” instead? It’s time to retire “wife beater.”

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