Armani celebrates the atelier
Designer Giorgio Armani sets the tone for the awards season with colour pops and voluminous gowns
The loudest conversation at this run of Paris couture shows has concerned two matters: who is couture for and, more pressingly, how exactly is it made?
The first can probably be answered by looking at the front row: VIP clients with large chequebooks. But the second is more nuanced, and best answered by designer Giorgio Armani — who emerged from behind a curtain at his Prive show to retrieve a small black feather which had fallen from the cape of the 85th gown before taking his bow. A helpful reminder, then, that couture is made by hand.
Otherwise, things ran like clockwork. The Italian designer showed his collection within the gilt rooms of the Italian embassy on Tuesday evening. Prive is a reliable indicator as to what we’ll see on the red carpet come awards season. The collection was just shy of 100 looks and themed around a cocktail dinner, arriving in several acts.
Things began simply: classic jacquard and velvet suits followed by playful takes on the tuxedo shape came in black and champagne. Then came the gowns.
The Armani colours were fantastical and sweet-like, pairing fuchsia with sapphire, turquoise and jade. Occasionally crystals and sequins decorated a look. If this collection goes some way to dictate the mood at the Emmys (which take place in September) then the top line is split neatly in two: minimalism and maximalism. Suits or frou-frou.
Given the state of gender power politics, who knows what will happen on the red carpet. But Armani’s message is simple — go loud or go home.