Going beyond the wedding
Veteran designer Tarun Tahiliani who opened India Couture Week talks about how the focus on bridal couture is shifting
Veteran fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani says that buying couture in India is centred around big events like weddings. “There is a lot of time and effort that goes into making each couture piece and that comes with its cost. So, purchasing couture in India has always been centred around an event and in our country, the biggest event in one’s life is their wedding,” Tahiliani said.
He also says that Indian couture has evolved over the years.
“Indian designers are being recognised globally for their work which is largely due to their celebration of intricate craftsmanship and fabrics that our country is known for,” he continued.
The designer, who launched his eponymous label in 1990, has styled the best in Bollywood and global icons such as Oprah Winfrey during her visit to India in 2011.
Talking about how Indians are making a difference between bridal and couture, he continued: “I think that finally, the wedding couture is becoming more and more contemporary. There is more movement and lightness. It is not solely obsessed with the costumes of royalty, and it is definitely a new path for the vitality of things.”
“It’s all in the process of becoming contemporary. It’s got technologically much more interesting because it takes western construct and puts it together, and I think that as it is very attractive in the western world, but it is now beginning to make some inroads, and will turn out to be glamorous,” he added.
The designer opened India Couture Week on Wednesday night with his latest collection.
“In Elysium is our couture and occasion wear collection that celebrates the modern Indian goddess. One who embraces luxury as a way of life and encapsulates all the beautiful influences of India, today. Juxtaposing iconic European construction with classic Indian styles and embroideries, this collection exemplifies an India Modern aesthetic,” he said.
Shimmering florals and weightless drapes recreate the mythical paradise of Elysium.
“The fine threadworm of traditional Indian embroidery forms the textured canvas for myriad layers of embellish- ment and drape. Fabrics like tulle and georgette add lightness and enhance movement, while the carefully hand embroidered Swarovski crystals add the twinkle to the clothing. Vivid bursts of three-dimensional florals span the collection in the innovative crafting of ribbon-twisted organza, chiffon couching, twisted sheer silk, laser-cut textiles, and detailed applique,” he added.
Actress Aditi Rao Hydari was the showstopper for the designer.
“She represents the quintessential Tarun Tahiliani muse — the woman who knows herself and the woman who looks like herself, the woman who is not weighed down with the burden of projects,” he said.
Asked how important it was to have a Bollywood face for such shows Tahiliani said: “I have always maintained that the creations must be the star of the collection. However, it is actually for the press that we need to have stars and because that has happened, it does excite some of our clients too, especially in Delhi, where they don’t get to see the stars that often.”