Identity

Material culture

- TEXT: JOANNE MOLINA

Dynamic design duo Doshi Levien have collaborat­ed with Danish textile masters Kvadrat to create their first curtain collection. The recent launch of the first curtain collection by renowned British/ Indian design duo Doshi Levien for Kvadrat was greeted with high acclaim, and to celebrate its premiere the design duo created Pilotis, a naïve, futuristic and architectu­rally formed installati­on for the Kvadrat Maharam showroom of Dubai Design Week. The pairing took a moment to reveal their process and the secret of positive collaborat­ion. What was your inspiratio­n for the collection? Utopia and Lake were inspired by hard and textured architectu­ral surfaces like machined and cast concrete, brushed anodised aluminium, glass, weathered metal and rendered walls. On that basis, we created a series of new surface textures and cast them in plaster. The play of light and shadow on the relief resulted in the jacquard pattern of Utopia. The iridescenc­e and luminous quality of glass and brushed aluminium is interprete­d as the diagonal twill lines of Lake. We researched Le Corbusier’s tapestries and paintings found in Chandigarh, the city in India he planned and designed.

Although the inspiratio­n for Utopia and Lake came from hard surfaces, when translated into curtains the soft drape creates a fluid pattern. Rocket and Fiction are both knits with a naïve and futuristic optimism. The perforatio­ns of Rocket are inspired by high-tech fabrics used in sports and fashion, with a science fiction- feel of space age, lightness and speed. We wanted to create technical fabrics but with soft architectu­ral colours. We imagine the Rocket and Fiction used in layers, with the colours of Fiction coming through the perforated knit of Rocket. What was your brief? There wasn’t a set brief, but more an invitation to propose design directions. However, from the outset we decided to work on curtains. In the beginning our ideas were artistic exploratio­ns in architectu­ral textures and colours. It was through a dialogue that we decided to pursue two distinct directions. Utopia and Lake have an architectu­ral feel, and Rocket and Fiction are more playful and avant-garde. How does the installati­on reflect the new collection? Pilotis is an architectu­ral installati­on inspired by ‘béton brut’, with smooth columns of reinforced concrete that symbolise modernist architectu­re. Anthropomo­rphic pilotis of textured, smooth and perforated fabrics are juxtaposed with each other, creating a play with light and darkness. The machine-like texture of Utopia is combined with the smooth iridescenc­e of Lake; the perforatio­ns of Rocket are layered with opaque Fiction. What were the challenges? The biggest challenge in designing any textile is the big leap between design and the actual fabric. Mixing colours of warp and wefts is an inexact science and there are many unexpected but surprising results. Unlike upholstery fabrics that are used on furniture, curtain fabrics are hung and the scale is architectu­ral. We tried to capture the architectu­ral scale with softness in the installati­on. What did it mean to you to collaborat­e with Kvadrat? There is great openness to ideas and we had complete freedom at the conceptual stage. We worked very closely with the design team, who supported us through all the technical challenges. This openness with a strong sense of direction for us is unique to their company.

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