CHEFS THAT SHOOT WITH SMOKING GUNS
CHEMISTRY AND TECHNOLOGY HAVE WALKED OUT OF R&D LABS AND LANDED IN KITCHENS TO CREATE AN ARCANE WORLD OF MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY
Not very long ago, cooking in restaurant and hotel kitchens asked little of the chefs. Recipes found in old, torn grandmother’s recipe journals got titled as ‘chef’s specials’. Passion for flavours and aromas ranked above qualifications attained from culinary institutes. Swirls, sprinkles and sprigs brought fresh dimensions to plate art. And the individuals who prepared these meals remained behindthe-scenes, largely. As for dining out, it too required little of guests — an appetite worked just fine.
Fast-forward to 2016 and the Dubai foodscape looks different. Kitchens have been christened as laboratories. Chefs have gone back to school for higher studies. Ladles, pots and pans now share space with dehydrators, hot infusion siphons and aquarium pumps. A pretty dish no longer suffices as edible art. And yes, if you’ve been eating out as much as we have, you would have felt the pressure of being able (unable) to note (as you relished) the differences between the texture of foam and the consistency of a gel. Welcome to the age of molecular gastronomy — where eating is no longer just a lovely experience but a cinematic, unforgettable event.
Cooking is (was?) supposed to be therapeutic. How does one relax whilst donning a helmet and a pair of gloves to cook a meal? “It’s a beautiful and technical cooking procedure where chefs enjoy the freedom to innovate. It never gives you a feeling that you’re working in a lab,” shares Chandrachur Chamoli, head chef, Signature By Sanjeev Kapoor, Meliá Dubai.
“Molecular gastronomy is about understanding science and its application to food,” says Himanshu Saini, executive chef, Tresind, Nassima Royal Hotel, Dubai. “It’s about studying the ingredients at the molecular level that seeks to investigate its physical and chemical transformation. It does not take the charm out of cooking. It makes the life of chefs easy, for it helps us have a better understanding of micro details of the ingredient and its reaction.”
Is it edible?
‘Can I eat this? Is this safe? Why don’t you try it first?’ These are just a few questions that Chandrachur responds to on a daily basis. “The ‘chemicals’ used are of biological origin. Even though they have been purified and processed, the raw material’s origin is usually marine, plant, animal or microbial. These additives have been approved by EU standards and are used in minute amounts,” he states. Concurring, Francisco Araya, academic director, SCAFA (School of Culinary And Finishing Arts), JLT, Dubai, says, “Many people wrongly believe that it’s unsafe or unhealthy, but they don’t realise that all these products have been used in the food industry for the last 80 years and have gone through the most thorough analysis with no risk-related outcome.”
On the kitchen shelves
“Molecular gastronomy, being a science, requires certain specialised tools and equipment that help chefs transform a dish into a spectacular experience. Typically, tools like a sous-vide circulator, smoking gun for flavour infusion, a cryovac vacuum packer, several baths and slotted spoons for spherification, a micro infusion syringe pump to make spaghetti and other foods that need to be slowly extruded, and a set of micro-tweezers and scalpels for carving and garnishing are used,” explains Zorawar Kalra, who is founder and managing director of Massive Restaurants, as well as a judge on MasterChef India this year. Deconstructed Shepherd’s Pie, Phirni Oxide and Tangy Chaat Puffs are a few must-haves at Zorawar’s restaurant Farzi Cafe, at City Walk, Dubai.
Chandrachur feels that the experiments of molecular gastronomists have resulted in a number of innovative dishes including olive oil spirals, faux caviar, and hot gelatin, among many others. His favourite innovations? Frozen Cherry Tomato, Vegetarian Egg Yolk, Balooni Tomato Shorba and Lychee Marble Soup. Himanshu loves creating instant ice-cream using liquid nitrogen. Plus, his aerated Pani Puri spheres are a big hit.
It’s worth the risk
The chefs come armed with liquid nitrogen canisters. “It’s not dangerous!” assures Himanshu. “Liquid nitrogen has an extraordinarily low temperature of -196°C and is used for freezing foods and drinks instantly, resulting in changing the formation, texture and temperatures. One should not use it without any logic and should not compromise on taste by focusing on visual theatrics. Flavour will always come first, followed by the technique.”
Despite their seemingly outlandish techniques, molecular gastronomists prioritise quality and flavour, agrees Chandrachur. “The focus is always on the taste and flavours. On very rare occasions, the chefs will think about the presentation and go backwards.”
Also, contrary to general perception, liquid nitrogen is not ingested, adds Zorawar. “Our chefs and mixologists harness the unique cooling properties of liquid nitrogen mostly for our signature desserts, incorporating the element of ice-cream or mousse, or in our house cocktails. It is also possible to create amazing appetisers like frozen meringue or mousse, or powdered, freezedried fruits to garnish desserts; and use high-speed beaters to whip up clouds of chutney foam.”
A long-lasting trend
“While the concept may have reached its peak in the West, in the East, especially the Indian subcontinent, it is still at a nascent stage and offers much for us to explore,” says Zorawar. “We’re entering a ‘post-molecular’ phase, where molecular gastronomy still forms a part of the contemporary cuisine. It is evident that modernist cuisine is not going to fade away for a long time. By employing modern culinary techniques, latest technologies, laboratorystyle pieces of equipment, and cutting-edge styles of presentation, progressive cuisine aims to showcase food from around the world in a contemporary manner, bringing them to the 2020’s. What we are looking at is not a rejection of modern cuisine, I would say, rather it is an evolution.”
The next trend may be to transform dining into an emotional and multi-sensorial experience, Chandrachur predicts. “The last 20 years were all about science and the next 20 will be about nature. In the future, I think chefs will take inspiration from nature and give it back in the most sustainable modern way,” adds Himanshu.
So, the next time you see a chef walking towards you with a trolley (cooking at their workstations in kitchens is passé), be prepared not just for a bite of edible wonders — but also a lesson on culinary techniques.