Love at first sight, with the Indonesian batik

an item of haute couture, history, and heritage — world leaders have worn it as ‘silly shirts’, designers are working to modernise the art, and locals are sporting it for good fortune

Some call it awkward. I call it awesome. Whatever the judgment, world leaders at the annual Asian-Pacific Economic Cooperation (Apec) summits, representing more than half of the world’s GDP, sport exotic garb for a signature event dubbed the ‘silly shirts’ photo shoot. Over the years since 1993, the sartorial ritual has showcased bombardier jackets from America, Star Trek suits from China, barongs from the Philippines, hanboks from South Korea, and ponchos from Chile, among many others. But standing out loud among the APEC outfits is the batik dreamboat that Indonesia and Malaysia have presented.

Of the two neighbours, Indonesia is artistically closer to my heart — for two reasons. In 2000, the Helping Hand, a rehabilitation centre for former drug convicts in Singapore, opened up the exotic world of Indonesian artifacts to me. First it was furniture; then batik. As the Indon craze grew big on me, my dwelling place got smaller and smaller with matt-finish teak pieces filling all available horizontal space, and framed batik paintings creeping up all the vertical space. It was love at first sight with batik, an art form refined by centuries of acculturation. I took pride when I was privately called Mr Teak and Mr Batik. I had earned those names.

Batik is a manifestation of Indonesia’s religious pluralism and social cohesion. It binds together the nation’s present Islamic culture and a towering Hindu and Buddhist past. One of the important identities of Indonesian heritage; batik was designated by Unesco as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity on October 2, 2009.

Batik textiles are a product of a wax-resistant dyeing technique found in many parts of South-East Asia, the sub-continent, and places as far as Nigeria and Egypt, where the art form was supposedly used to wrap mummies in 4th century BC. However, the Indonesian batik is the most intricate and sophisticated in terms of design, technique, and workmanship. For an aesthete, the batik of Indonesia is not just a multi-coloured piece of cloth, but a fine fabric woven with the history and heritage of a nation.

If I haven’t worn a tailored batik shirt despite having a small collection of the art, it’s because I am still illiterate about its bylaws. Many batiks are occasion-specific. It is believed that certain cloths and motifs have mystical powers to ward off ill fortune, while others could bring good luck. According to various Indon culture vultures, infants are carried in batik slings decorated with symbols designed to bring good luck. Certain designs are reserved for brides and bridegrooms, and the dead are shrouded in funerary batik.

While the whole nation indulges in a singular fashion, batik is also trapped in a class system, as is evident from certain designs reserved for the Sultan and his family and other elite. They say the batik pattern you wear is determinant of your social status.

Batik garments are customary for many rituals. According to history books, in the naloni mitoni, first pregnancy ceremony, the mother-to-be is wrapped in seven layers of batik before being showered with blessings. When a child touches the earth for the first time, batik is used in the tedak siten ceremony to seek the blessings and protection of God and ancestors. Batik is also part of the labuhan ceremony where people throw offerings into the sea to please the diety Kanjeng Ratu Kidul.

Though batik commands immense respect the world over, the sense of humour the garments radiate also has a political undertone in Indonesia. After centuries of foreign influence, batik was reinvented in 1960s on the islands as a medium of protestation. Indonesian fashion designers, who tried to innovate women’s tight-fitting kebaya by adding new colours, fabrics, and patterns, got a shot in the arm as the government took measures to preserve the tradition. The value of batik exports has since grown to $340 million in 2014. It is expected to see a 300 per cent growth to $1.5 billion in the next four years.

After the Unesco recognition in 2009, the government asked Indonesians to wear batik on Fridays, even to offices as a replacement for formal wear. October 2 is also celebrated as National Batik Day when carnivals are held across the nation. However, batik was thrust into international limelight when major fashion labels partnered with local designers to produce haute couture clothes using the art. Batik users suddenly found themselves in the company of world leaders, celebrities and royals like Nelson Mandela, Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton, Jessica Alba, Rachel Bilson, and Reese Witherspoon, to mention a few.

Batik is cool as tradition and haute couture. If not anything, it provides a comical relief in the fast-paced modern life and in the straight-jacketed world of politics and business.