Where nature and peace preside
From the waters to the mountains, Turkey’s Black Sea region offers visitors pleasures distinct to a region defined by its lush beauty
It’s one of Europe’s little-known treasures. Removed literally and figuratively from the excitement of Istanbul and the trendy beaches of the Mediterranean, Turkey’s Black Sea region remains an undiscovered destination of scenic seasides, hilltop towns, lush national parks and World Heritage sites. A narrow strip running across the top of the country, the region is defined by emerald hills, alpine meadows, rich valleys and glacial lakes. At its westernmost point, the Black Sea region begins east of Istanbul in Bolu, whose centerpiece is Yedigöller, or Seven Lakes National Park, with forests of oak, alder, pine and hazelnut. Explorers can also discover hot springs and hiking opportunities and, in winter, one of Turkey’s best ski centres. The coastal town of Amasra has a Roman bridge, Byzantine city walls, 14th-century Genoese forts and historic mosques. Nearby, the fishing villages of Cide and Abana are popular for a seaside meal, romance and inspired cuisine. Just inland from Amasra is one of the region’s best-known attractions, Safranbolu. With its beautifully preserved and restored Ottoman konaks, or mansions, the town is a World Heritage Site.
Also inland is Kastamonu, with its 12th-century castle, beautiful handicrafts and coveted fruit jams. The expansive pastures in the vicinity offer some of the best trail riding in Turkey, while the nearby Ilgaz Mountain National Park boasts plentiful wildlife.
As the only naturally sheltered harbour along the Black Sea, Sinop has been a port for 1,000 years. The town takes its name from the Amazon queen Sinope and mythology suggests that female warriors, called Amazons, lived here.
Further east is Trabzon, a trading port as far back as 7,000 BC. The largest city in the region, it became an important feature of the Silk Route, and visitors will find historic churches, mosques and other landmarks.
The Hagia Sophia dominates Trabzon’s city centre, built by Byzantine Emperor Manuel Komnenos in the 13th century as a gift to his hometown and named after the jewel of the empire, the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.
Inland from Trabzon is the Sumela Monastery, built almost 4,000 feet above the forest into the Mount Mela cliffs. Its church, begun in the fourth century by Greek monks and expanded to a monastery in the 14th century, has been restored and rebuilt.
The lush area around Rize has the highest rate of precipitation in the country and is the centre of Turkey’s tea production. This moist and moderate climate provides perfect growing conditions for vast, terraced plantations of tea, both green and black.
Turkey’s easternmost outpost on the Black Sea is Artvin, famous for its festivals celebrating regional culture and featuring music, food, costumes, dancing and more.
Black Sea cuisine is strongly influenced by mountains and sea, and meals often include the black anchovy, or hamsi, along with corn, pickled green beans, local vegetables and Akçaabat köfte (meatballs). Sweet helva, made with corn, butter and local honey, is another favourite, as well as the vast variety of Black Sea and river fish.