Where is our home? Syrians find Raqa battered beyond recognition
raqa — Bashar Hammoud thought he knew his native Raqa like the back of his hand, but a monthslong offensive against the Daesh group has scarred the Syrian city so badly he can barely recognise it.
Hammoud, a 26-year-old member of the US-backed Syrian Democratic Forces, was floored when he entered the battered northeastern district of Al Rumeilah for the first time in years.
“I used to come here a lot because my uncles lived here and the college of literature, where I studied, was here,” the bony member of the SDF’s media office said.
“I don’t even know where we are. If I got out of the car now, I wouldn’t know how to go back. It’s all gone. I know we’re in Al Rumeilah — but where in Al Rumeilah, I don’t know,” he says. The district’s twostorey homes have been smashed to the ground by bombardment.
Fighters from the US-backed SDF — which broke into Raqa in June after spending months encircling the city — are roaming the rubble-littered streets, but no civilians are in sight. When a pair of air strikes send consecutive booms echoing across Al Rumeilah, Hammoud furrows his brows.
His family home lies in Al Maarri and he has not seen it since fleeing Raqa in December 2014.
“Standing or destroyed, my only wish now is to see my home, but I know that that neighbourhood hasn’t been liberated yet,” he says.
“My comrades told me hopefully today, it will be liberated. If my house is gone, it’ll be a shock to me.”
I don’t even know where we are. If I got out of the car now, I wouldn’t know how to go back. It’s all gone. I know we’re in al rumeilah — but where in al rumeilah, I don’t know,
Bashar Hammoud
More than three years after Daesh declared a self-styled “caliphate” across swathes of Syria and Iraq, the SDF’s Arab and Kurdish fighters hold around 90 per cent of its onetime de facto Syrian capital Raqa.
The Raqa natives among them say it has been dizzying to see neighbourhoods they had known for years being called different names by people who lived under Daesh’s iron fist. An area called Al Hukumah — “government” — has become known as Al Hikmeh, or “wisdom.” The Al Bassel Mosque, named after President Bashar Al Assad’s older brother, was renamed Al Nur. And most infamously, the Al-Naim roundabout where Daesh carried out beheadings and crucifixions was renamed “Al Jaheem” — the Roundabout of Hell.
At the eastern entrance to the city, Hammoud points to two large triangular flags hanging from a metal frame: one belonging to the SDF, and the other to the Kurdish People’s Protection Units (YPG).
“There used to be a big black flag there with the phrase everyone knows — ‘the Daesh State in Iraq and Syria.’ Now look at the SDF flag. Colours are coming back to Raqa,” Hammoud says. —