Fashion suffers from lack of cutting criticism
Last year The Financial Times published an article: Diet Prada — Fashion’s most powerful critic. For fashion, @diet_prada is a must follow. It started in 2014, but it was only last year that many starting taking notice of its content. They call a spade a spade and most importantly a copy, a copy. They have no problem saying that Alessandro Michele of Gucci’s Cruise 2018 jackets were just too similar to the 1989 designs of Harlem tailor, Dapper Dan. (Though Gucci called it a “homage”). They also pointed out that Dior’s motif on a dress from their Resort 2018 show had too much of a “striking resemblance” to that of Indian brand’s People Tree’s decade-old block print. Be it Dolce Gabbana, Coach, Guess jeans and Target, if you have committed the crime of plagiarism, you will be ousted. It has 384,000 followers, including the likes of Naomi Campbell, Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, Vogue Arabia’s launch editor, who is still considered one of this region’s most influential fashion figures. Needless to say, the industry keeps a tab on the posts.
It is believed that American couple Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler is behind the account, but they haven’t confirmed it yet. By being anonymous they have more power than fashion magazines and newspapers. And of course since this is a passion project and not driven by money they do not care about upsetting an advertiser or client. They are not typical fashion influencers, looking to work with a brand or have their style talked about. They have a take on issues too, like sexual harassment within the industry. And are now being called “The Fashion Police”. So much so they have even started selling their own merchandise, and you can buy “Call it Out Mugs” and J’adior t-shirts. They keep it tongue in check and there is a sense of irreverence to everything they do. And that’s is what makes it so addictive. A breath of fresh air among other fashion instagrammers who are just about self-promotion most of the time.
There is a sense of irreverence to everything they do. And that’s is what makes it so addictive
Now @diet_prada has it own knock off — in India. We are know that India has its own rich history of fashion—and that it still an important sourcing point for cloth and crafts for both fashion labels and haute couture houses. A country that has its own flourishing homegrown fashion industry, it has been a serial offender when it comes to being a copycat especially before the days of social media. From Shahab Durazi to Surily Goel, there have been many designers whose designs have seemed just too inspired. And then there are Indian designers who like to copy Indian designers. It’s no coincidence to see many Sabyasachi and Anamika Khanna “me-toos” available in the posh boutiques of Delhi and Mumbai. Wonder if one could say that plagiarism is just the norm. This March @dietsabya made its first post and asked whether Adarsh Gill’s closing gown for her Autumn/Winter 2018 show was too inspired by Azzedine Alaia circa 1991. @dietsabya also targeted Shahid Kapoor saying he wore a design that was an obvious rip off Belgian designer Kris Van Assche’s look. The hashtag #deniedsourcingrequest is an excellent play of words encapsulating it well. It makes “light” in many ways of a serious problem within the Indian fashion business. The industry is still trying to figure out who is behind the account. (I don’t why I feel the person or duo is based in Delhi). But it was much needed. At the recent Lakme Fashion Week one established Mumbai-based label was so Dolce and Gabbana meets Gucci with its men’s wear, it really was embarrassing to watch. Yet, many fashion editors sitting there were happy to give the label rave reviews. Perhaps, this was because the label had film industry’s most chatty directors walk for them. In contrast, @dietsabya is the one that safeguards creativity. It’s about time this region had its own version. Perhaps, we could call it @dietElieSaab or @dietZuhair? Sujata Assomull is the Consulting
Fashion Editor at Khaleej Times