Glorious sunsets At the heArt of DubAi
The district surrounding Bur Dubai creek is one of the city’s most important business hubs
Afew moments before sunset, a seven-yearold Emirati boy and his grandfather were seen walking out of the giant wooden arches of Bur Dubai’s textile and spices souq, holding a bag of samosas in one hand and bird feed in another.
The boy pulled his grandfather’s hand and led him to a small opening behind the tiny shops selling Arab souvenirs, pashminas and perfumes. They sat on a concrete ledge by the Dubai Creek and began throwing bird feed to the flock of seagulls flying around. Their feet dangled from the ledge, as the creek waters gently lapped against algae-covered rocks.
At the backdrop of this sight is the bustling creek-side souq and abra station of Bur Dubai. This well-loved tourist spot — right in the heart of old Dubai — is never short of visitors. Flanked by Al Fahidi Historical District on one side and Heritage Village and the Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum’s House on the other, the U-shaped, saltwater Dubai Creek is divided into Deira and Bur Dubai.
Steeped in history
Though the Deira creek remains an essential port for new and old businesses, the Bur Dubai creek was where modern Dubai was born. According to the Lonely Planet Dubai city guide published in 2006, “it was along the Bur Dubai creek area that members of the Bani Yas tribe first settled in the 19th century, establishing the Al Maktoum era in the city”.
The transcript added: “In the early 20th century, the creek, though incapable then of supporting largescale transportation, served as a minor port for dhows (traditional boats) coming from as far away as India or East Africa.”
Today, the district surrounding the Bur Dubai creek is one of the city’s most important business and tourism hotspots. Located at Al Fahidi, it is where the young and old come to sample a taste of authentic Dubai.
Finest wares
Dusty, cracked plaster houses and the occasional wind towers mimic Emirati homes of yesteryears. At the base of each of these homes, lines of stores are selling everything from Dh8-per-gramme saffron to ice cream as souvenir shops offer Arabian perfume and expensive Kashmiri pashminas.
Traders from Pakistan, Afghanistan, India and Iran are often seen playfully teasing tourists and their families in an attempt to draw them toward their stores.
“It is a bit notorious,” British tourist Jaime Hymers said, laughing. “I’ve seen this behaviour in Delhi’s market, too. They looked at my wife and commented she would look great in an abaya (traditional dress) and I would look great in a gathra (traditional Arab headgear). We took pictures, did not buy anything.”
Mohammed Anees, owner of textile shop Al Rawabit Traders, said: “We sell pashmina shawls for Dh15-20. The more expensive ones are worth Dh110 at least. Business is good at this time of the year because the weather is so good and there are so many tourists. Most tourists are from China and many are from Europe.”
Vendor Arif Ali Al Marzooqi has been trading Iranian spices in the market for 10 years now. “I bring most of my spices from Shiraz, Iran, and India. We have jasmine, mint, lavender, tea and saffron. Saffron is the most expensive,” he said.
Sample authentic food
In the evening, creek-side restaurant Bayt Al Wakeel is never short of people enjoying black tea and shisha. Moreover, for people who prefer to have Indian snacks with their evening tea, Hamad Khalfan Al Dalil Restaurant is the top choice. Store owner Sameer Mohammed’s father, Mohammed Haji, and his uncle Abdul Jaleel opened the shop in 1968.
“People come here for the banana fritters, samosas, vegetable pakoras and other deep-fried snacks. During the winter season, we sell up to 1,000 samosas every day,” he said.
People come here for the banana fritters, samosas, vegetable pakoras and other deep-fried snacks. During winter, we sell up to 1,000 samosas every day.”
Sameer Mohammed,
manager, Hamad Khalfan Al Dalil Restaurant
Business is good at this time of the year because the weather is so good and there are so many tourists. Most tourists are from China.”
Mohammed Anees, owner, Al Rawabit Traders