Leather jackets get an embellished upgrade for the upcoming season
▶ Leather jackets are getting an elaborate makeover this season, writes Hafsa Lodi
Picture this: a black biker jacket crafted from calf leather, emblazoned with embroidered, varsity-inspired patches, including one shaped like a shield and topped with three overlapping letters, YSL, picked out in gold embroidery. This Saint Laurent creation costs Dh16,000 and is an example of this autumn’s style staple: the lavish leather jacket.
While outerwear is a key feature of any autumn/winter collection, jackets punctuated with personality have been particularly on-trend of late, thanks to one luxury fashion house, Gucci. When creative director Alessandro Michele unveiled a decadent hand-painted and embellished leather jacket on his spring/summer 2016 runway, fashion-conscious men and women everywhere rushed to get their hands on one. Since then, many other brands have followed suit, repurposing the leather jacket to make it evermore fashion-forward.
For the coming season, the floral motifs, appliqué work and hand-painted elements propagated by Michele are making a bold appearance on leather, proving that even a garment that’s historically masculine can exude a strong feminine appeal.
Trends do not, generally, appear out of thin air – they’re often rooted in history, but evolve, expand and blossom once they are thrust back into the mainstream by fashion brands looking to put their own stamp on a certain style. The leather jacket was first manufactured for wartime pilots in 1918, and grew to become synonymous with motorcycle gangs in the late 1920s. For years, it was off-limits to women, until rock and roll, and the rise of feminism granted it unisex appeal. In the 1990s, the leather jacket peaked when supermodel Kate Moss took to wearing one, helping the garment gain cult status in the wardrobes of many women.
Still, leather jackets have remained relatively unadorned in high fashion, with focus traditionally placed on cut, crop and quality, rather than overthe-top art or 3-D embellishments. For the coming season, however, a “more-is-more” mantra is expected to prevail.
A boxy leather jacket from Italian label Etro may seem unexpected from a brand built on paisley prints, tiered dresses and Bohemian chic. But embroidered birds and floral appliqués are scattered across this leather piece, making it an
ideal buy for women looking to balance old-school grunge with a touch of femininity.
Other brands, including Miu Miu and Coach, have created high-priced versions similar to Saint Laurent’s, topped with sporty badges, but in bomber-jacket silhouettes.
While you may be sweating at the mere thought of wearing leather when it is more than 40 degrees outside, be forewarned: cult fashion items have a way of selling out, especially in this region, where style trends are followed promptly and staunchly. And there is certainly a place for leather, even in the Middle East, especially when those cool winter evenings make their return.
For pre-fall 2017, even local concept store S*uce is offering a range of in-house leather jackets, hand-painted to depict colourful motifs like rainbows, clouds, hearts and cherries. S*uce co-founder Zayan Ghandour, who helms her namesake brand, Zayan the Label, has also dabbled with the trend, having previously designed leather jackets featuring embroidered roses, sequinned stars, neon deer-shaped motifs and a romantic slogan: “Let me dream my love”. Those looking for completely unique pieces can take it a step further and have their jackets customised. Dubai-based salon SoH Art + Beauty specialises in unusual nail art, and even personalises leather goods, including bags, shoes and jackets.
Dubai-based pop artist Maria Iqbal, known for her bold, graffiti-style approach to painting, can also put her brush to leather for clients’ special orders.
If you’re wary of splurging on decorated leather and are concerned about whether it will have long-term appeal, consider the sentimental value it may one day hold.
Also, given that leather jackets, in their various guises, have managed to retain their popularity for close to a century, it seems unlikely that they will loose their lustre any time soon.