Rowing on the Nile acquires new meaning in Egypt’s post-lockdown era
While many residents of Cairo have grown to take the Nile for granted, the river remains a vital lifeline for some Egyptians who have grown tired of the capital’s infamously bad traffic, densely populated neighbourhoods and detachment from nature.
Dawn can be a magical time in Cairo, especially if you are fortunate enough to be looking at the Nile’s banks at the time.
Few know this as well as Cairo’s rowers, who have made the river a second home that they visit as an escape from the noise pollution normally emanating from either side of the river.
In the early hours of the morning, little can be seen or heard on the Nile river but the rhythm of oars in the water.
And as most people sleep, a lucky few are able to experience a side of the city seldom seen – a softer side.
“Rowing taught me lessons that people read about in books, but I learnt them first hand,” says professional Egyptian rower and triathlete Asmaa El Zohairy.
El Zohairy, who won first place at the National Rowing Championship in 2016, owns and operates her own rowing academy called ScullnBlades.
She came to the sport late, having picked it up as a hobby when she was 26 years old. El Zohairy, 32, was told by many that she would not succeed because people do not make it in the world of athletics unless they start young.
She was happy to prove everyone wrong with her rise to become one of Egypt’s most proficient rowers.
Egyptians’ fascination with the sport of rowing goes back more than 3,400 years to about 1430BC – the earliest recorded evidence of rowing as a leisure sport in Ancient Egypt. Today, that interest shows no signs of diminishing.
Cairo is an imposing mass of concrete buildings. With so much going on around them, Cairenes often forget about the Nile, its significance, beauty, and accessibility.
“Rowing allows you to connect with nature,” says El Zohairy. “Cairo and nature are at odds with each other. Here, everyone’s always late, or in a hurry, or out of time. So getting a moment to slow down, and do something for yourself to help you calm down and get your thoughts in order.
“Having a chance like that is something beautiful.” Egypt endured a four-month lockdown starting in March 2020 due to the pandemic. The lockdown saw the closure of most public spaces, including all sporting venues. Rowing clubs were not spared.
El Zohairy says that in July 2020, when the lockdown was at last lifted and people were allowed to return to public spaces, there was an overwhelming demand for places in her rowing classes.
“After the lockdown, many people were really enthusiastic to get out and do new things,” she says.
“We were delighted to find that so many people wanted to try out rowing for the first time.
“Newcomers who came once would keep coming back. I think it’s because it gives them a chance to be on the Nile, with the added benefit of exercise.
“That’s the thing they appreciate most about rowing, I think, being on the Nile.”