Pandemic precautions cannot keep Mawlid crowds out of Cairo
Thousands packed the streets around Cairo’s Islamic landmarks on Monday night to honour the Prophet Mohammed’s birthday.
A ban on mass celebrations by Egypt’s highest religious authorities after a rise in Covid-19 cases did little to deter the crowds.
Patisseries laid out elaborate displays of traditional Mawlid sweets, sugar-coated nuts and Turkish delight.
Thousands crammed the narrow streets around Al Hussein Mosque, the Citadel of Saladin and Al Sayeda Zainab Mosque.
Street sellers tempted them with dolls made of sugar, a traditional treat for the Prophet’s birthday, and memorabilia including pendants, clay mugs and brass plates with the Prophet’s name.
To mark Mawlid, one of the most important holidays of the Islamic calendar, passers-by wore commemorative bandannas and clothing bearing expressions of their love and devotion to the Prophet.
In the district of Al Hussein, a small and densely populated area of Islamic Cairo named after the Fatimid mosque at its centre, young people sat at the cramped tables of the many coffee shops overlooking the mosque’s main courtyard.
Some brought out their ouds and tablas to play Mawlid songs for visitors to enjoy.
Many people said they were disappointed that the usual street events were not taking place this year.
“Before the pandemic, a stage would be set up here in the middle of the square and folklore groups would perform, dancers would dance in the middle of the streets and everyone would clap and join in,” said Ibrahim Maher, a barista at one of the cafes overlooking the mosque.
“It really was something special.”
In an effort to curb the spread of the coronavirus, Egypt’s Awqaf, or Religious Endowments Ministry, has continued its ban of mass religious gatherings.
That may have deterred the country’s event planners from throwing their usual parties, but it certainly has not kept Egyptians indoors.
As the area’s more devout visitors lined up to enter Al Hussein Mosque, a voice on a loudspeaker resounded through the square urging people to wear masks and keep a safe distance before entering.
The inside of the mosque was less crowded than the streets outside.
“I thought about staying at home this year, especially considering all the warnings of a fourth wave, but to my family, this is such an important tradition and we decided not to miss it,” said Ali El Beblawy, 29, a carpenter and father of three.
In Khan El Khalili, one of Cairo’s most popular tourist destinations, shopkeepers put their best goods in front of their stores, many displaying beautifully crafted Qurans and prayer beads.
“People get pretty nostalgic around the Mawlid every year,” said Ismail Shaaban, who owns a shop in the area.
“I usually witness a sharp surge in people purchasing Qurans as gifts for their loved ones.”