Luxury property in Montenegro offers guests Riviera-style living by the bay
Having opened last summer as One&Only’s first resort in Europe, the ultra-luxury One&Only Portonovi on Boka Bay offers Riviera-style living in one of the most picturesque locations in Montenegro.
With Venetian-style architecture and a cutting-edge wellness centre, the resort is preparing for a busy second summer season.
The National checked in to see what travellers can expect at the upmarket retreat.
The welcome
When we land at Tivat Airport after an almost six-hour flight with flydubai, we are met by a driver in a sleek black car. Less than 10 minutes later, we’re on an open-air ferry crossing an expanse of cobalt water with views of forest-covered hills and terracotta-topped houses.
On the other side of the water, a 15-minute drive takes us to the Portonovi luxury lifestyle development and the One&Only resort.
We’re ushered inside, past an understated exterior, to a sleek lobby with floor-toceiling windows looks out to a terrace with breathtaking views over Boka Bay and the mountains. A welcome drink accompanies check-in formalities in the marbleclad lobby, where there is a soothing water fountain, grand piano and oversized glass chandelier.
The neighbourhood
Surrounded by cliffs that plummet into a narrow inlet of vivid blue water, the hotel has 113 guest rooms and suites, all of which are positioned to make the most of the views.
Guests can arrive by road or by boat, because the hotel has its own marina, and when it comes to sightseeing, this is best done by crossing the sunsparkled waters of Boka Bay.
One&Only Portonovi makes sure you’ll do so in style – travelling by mahogany-clad, Bond-esque speedboats. Of course, if you’re more of a road-trip aficionado, there’s plenty to explore with the ancient towns of Herceg Novi, Kotor and Perast near by. Part of the Portonovi luxury
lifestyle development, there are also residences, shops, cafes, bars and a 238-berth superyacht marina within walking distance.
The room
We’re in a ground-floor Portonovi room with a private terrace opening on to the hotel’s blooming gardens. Cutting across the grass – something that’s not frowned upon but encouraged – takes us to the water in one direction, and to the restaurants, beaches and spa in the other.
Much like Montenegro itself, the room is one of the most visually interesting places we’ve stayed in, with plenty to discover. There are shelves lined with books, board games and unique ornaments, as well as a cylindrical fireplace that lights up at the touch of a button and is inspired by the country’s traditional love of fireplaces.
The bathroom is a showstopper – with his and hers sinks on opposite sides of the room, a chaise longue and a huge soaking tub by the window that doubles as a cushion-covered daybed.
A spacious wooden terrace has a double sun lounger that is perfect for watching the sunrise, and also where we take shelter from morning rain showers, which end as quickly as they come and leave behind a bright, fresh canvas.
The scene
Spread across about 25 hectares and modelled on Venetian-style palaces of the region, the resort has monastic architecture, terracotta roofs and pretty internal courtyards. With secluded private pools, a fitness suite, KidsOnly and One Tribe for the younger guests, and a private beach and jetty, there’s something for everyone.
It’s also home to Chenot Espace, a cutting-edge centre from the Swiss wellness experts that offers treatments
designed to enhance guests’ vitality and health. We see several guests wandering around the public spaces in fluffy white robes, a sure sign that they are here on a detox or rejuvenating programme. Hotel guests are also welcome to book any of the centre’s therapies, and to make use of the stunning thermalbath-style indoor swimming pool – one of the largest in the country.
The food
Led by executive chef Nancy Kinchela, it offers culinary options including refined Italian dishes at Sabia, Asian fusion dining at Tapasake Club and farm-to-table fresh Montenegrin cuisine at La Veranda.
Tapasake is the resort’s high-end Japanese fusion spot that’s part beach club, part restaurant and part bar. By day, it’s the perfect place to lounge by the pool and there’s an in-water swing, private cabanas and sunset DJ performances. The menu consists of Japanese-inspired tapas-style dishes that include sushi, sashimi and ceviche, as well as fresh salads, tempura and small plates.
Highlights include the tuna tacos served with yuzu and green chilli ($15), tangy sea bass and coconut milk ceviche ($17) and the well-presented Chilean sea bass with lime ponzu ($40). Choose a green-tea creme brulee ($15) to end things on a high note.
Sabia serves southern Italian dishes and diners can opt to sit by the ocean. On our first evening, we’re seated by the beach and swoon over the pink-tinged sunset views accompanied by a Montenegrin musical duo, with the tunes really helping to bring a sense of authenticity to the experience.
The service
Typical for One&Only, the service is one of the key distinctions that ensure we have a memorable trip. Everyone we meet is knowledgeable and friendly. Montenegro has been through several hardships and all the locals we meet seem genuinely pleased that the resort has opened, bringing new jobs and tourism to the region.
Highs and lows
We love the convertible bathtub/day bed overlooking the fireplace in our room. It is a truly peaceful place to sit and look up at a night sky full of stars. The resort’s endless views of cobalt-blue inlets and rolling hills are also perfection from every viewpoint. The only downside we can think of is that we did not get to stay longer.
The insider tip
There are lots of bookable experiences designed to get guests out exploring the Unesco World Heritage site of Boka Bay and its surrounds. Discover monasteries hidden in caves, remarkable citadels, black mountain peaks and the world’s oldest olive tree among the various treasures that await tourists in the Adriatic country.
The verdict
Portonovi is one of the most luxurious seaside hotels we’ve been lucky enough to visit, and its stunning accommodation, perfect service and upmarket restaurants elevate the level of luxury in the country. Sightseeing through the bay on one of the hotel’s Bond-style boats is as close as many of us will come to feeling like we’re truly living the high life. This is a hotel for the bucket list.
The bottom line
Rates from €495 ($533) excluding taxes; oneandonlyresorts.com. Check-in is from 3pm and checkout is at noon, but this is flexible where possible.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel during the global coronavirus pandemic. It reflects hotel standards during this time, services may change in the future