Qatar revels in Gulf Ramadan tradition of ghabga meal

Ramadan feasts, such as iftar to end your fast, and suhoor, to keep you sustained for the next day’s fasting, are well known.

But what if someone gets hungry and needs something to eat between these two?

That is where the Gulf tradition of ghabga comes in – a family meal eaten between iftar and suhoor, at any time from 11pm to 2am.

“We’ve heard that in the early days, on some Ramadan nights people in Qatar would have a meal after the end of the taraweeh prayers. This was called ghabga,” said Amani, a Doha resident.

The word loosely translates to a gathering around a table.

The practice continues to hold a special place in her house, where she lives with her family.

Member of the extended family usually join them at the weekend for a lavish meal.

The tradition is quite old and is believed to have been revived some time in the early 20th century. It helps to prevent those fasting from overeating during iftar, and keeps their blood sugar levels stable through the night and even the next day.

Ghabga used to be mostly a family affair but it is now offered in various settings in Qatar. Restaurants and hotels, as well as large offices and institutions, organise ghabga parties for the community to come together during Ramadan.

And after a long day of fasting, food is at the centre of the festivities.

For ghabga, families often opt for traditional Qatari dishes. Among the favourites is thareed – crumbed bread, meat and broth – and harees, a wheat porridge mixed with meat.

“Earlier in my home, ghabga also consisted of the traditional dish baranyoush, where bread was cooked with sugar, molasses or date honey, along with grilled, fried or cooked fish,” said Amani.

Nourah, 32, a mother of three who works in the healthcare sector, also enjoys hosting ghabga meals at her Doha home.

There, during Ramadan, the air is often brimming with the delicious aromas of rice and meat cooking, with dishes such as majboos and mashkhool being prepared, as well as traditional sweets such as luqaimat, deep-fried sweet dumplings made of flour, yeast, cardamom and saffron.

“My favourite ghabga dish is harees,” she said.

Ghabga was reportedly popular in coastal regions of the country, with fish being part of most of the dishes.

The recipes, it is believed, focused on lighter preparations to ensure that people did not feel too thirsty while fasting the next day.

The meals aside, it is the coming together of the family, said Nourah, that is the highlight of the ghabga in her house.

“They are part of my best Ramadan memories. My children love to meet and play with their cousins and they also sing traditional songs based on childhood themes.”

At a time when most traditions are becoming commercialised and conversations happen primarily on social media, ghabga is a reminder of the good old ways of celebrating festivals, says Amani.

“Coming together as a family, without any of the outside distractions, is what makes ghabga special. I miss the nights when after the meal I would stay up late with my family and have long conversations. My late father and uncle would also join us,” she said.

“And here we are, trying keep the tradition going.”