Pilgrims from around the world travel to Iraq’s holy city
In the Iraqi city of Karbala, Ramadan is a time of much reflection and celebration, bringing a special atmosphere to the streets.
The city in the heart of the country is home to sites of historic importance to Muslims, including the shrines of the Prophet Mohammed’s grandsons, Imam Hussein and his brother Imam Abbas.
During the holy month, pilgrims from across Iraq and around the world converge in Karbala to worship and participate in religious and cultural activities.
“Ramadan days here are different from others in the year due to the special atmosphere and the prayers,” says Ayoob Aziz, 30, a waiter from the nearby city of Najaf.
During the first two weeks of Ramadan, the owner of the cafeteria where Mr Aziz works closes it down, giving him an opportunity to take his family on trips outside Najaf.
Their favourite places to visit are the famous Shiite shrines.
This year Mr Aziz started by visiting Baghdad, where he arrived on Tuesday and spent a night near the shrine of the eighth-century Imam Moussa Al Kadhim.
He reached Karbala on Wednesday morning.
“We pray for Iraq and for every Muslim going through difficult situations,” says Mr Aziz, sitting on a carpet in the shade outside the Karbala shrines with his wife and three daughters, aged between one and three.
Some worshippers spend the day inside the ornately decorated, gold-domed shrines, praying and taking part in educational programmes such as Quran recitals.
Others prefer to remain in the marble-paved area between the two shrines, where they can stay cool in the shade of shelters fitted with whirling fans.
Inside a three-storey annexe to the Imam Hussein Shrine, volunteers in blue caps and white aprons bend over large steel cooking pots, packaging meals for iftar.
Volunteers prepare two separate dining halls for the meal, while others roll out red carpets in the marble courtyard to create an outdoor dining area. Men and women are segregated.
Known as Mudhif Imam Hussein – “mudhif” meaning guesthouse in Arabic – the organisation was established in 2006 to offer meals free of charge to pilgrims, volunteers and staff at the shrines.
During Ramadan, it serves up to 3,000 iftar meals a day, using more than three tonnes of ingredients, says deputy head Mohammed Hassan. That number rises to 4,000 at weekends. The meals include rice with either red meat or chicken, lentil soup, bread, yoghurt and dates.
“I can’t really describe my feeling when serving the pilgrims, it’s something beyond words,” Mr Hassan tells The National, sitting in his office and checking bills with his employees.
“I feel great pleasure, happiness and pride.”
As the sun begins to set, the area around the shrines comes alive with the cheers of pilgrims and the aroma of delicious food.
Some bring their own food while others wait for the mudhif meals or buy from nearby restaurants. At night, Karbala is illuminated by colourful
lights and decorations, creating a festive and welcoming atmosphere. Children play in the yards and streets, and vendors sell traditional sweets and snacks.
Some people take pictures. For Haider Naeem, 24, a medical student from the southern province of Diwaniyah, visiting Karbala is also a chance to
catch up with friends. “It’s an amazing atmosphere,” says Mr Naeem, sitting crosslegged on a mattress near the shrines with friends from other provinces.
“The atmosphere of reverence and devotion, meeting friends and mingling with other people here is enough to change the mood.”