Michelin Guide Dubai 2023 awards star ratings to 14 restaurants
▶ Restaurants making the cut for the first time this year include Moonrise and Avatara, write One Carlo Diaz and Panna Munyal
The Michelin Guide Dubai announced its selection of restaurants for this year yesterday at a ceremony in Atlantis The Royal.
One-star ratings were given to 11 restaurants, two stars went to three restaurants, and 17 venues were selected for the Bib Gourmand category.
The awards take the number of Michelin-starred restaurants in Dubai from the 11 announced in the first guide in June last year, to 14.
Al Muntaha, Armani/Ristorante, Hakkasan, Hoseki, Ossiano, Tasca by Jose Avillez, Torno Subito and 11 Woodfire retained their single star.
Restaurants to win one star include Avatara, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Moonrise.
Three restaurants were awarded two stars each, with Il Ristorante – Niko Romito and Stay by Yannick Alleno retaining theirs, while fine-dining fusion Indian restaurant Tresind Studio went from a one-star rating to two stars.
All 14 restaurants from the 2022 Bib Gourmand list, which represents value-for-money spots, retained their status. They are Al Khayma, Bait Maryam, Brasserie Boulud, Fi’lia, folly, Goldfish, Ibn AlBahr, Indya by Vineet, Kinoya, Ninive, Orfali Bros, Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, Shabestan and Teible. Three restaurants – 3Fils, 21grams and Aamara – were added to the category.
The Opening of the Year Award, a new category for 2023, was conferred upon chef Ariana Bundy for her restaurant Ariana’s Persian Kitchen located in Atlantis The Royal, while Omkar Walve, of vegetarian restaurant Avatara, won the Young Chef Award.
Three restaurants won a Michelin Green Star, which recognises venues that champion sustainability. Last year’s winner Lowe retained its green star, while Boca and Teible were awarded one each this year.
No Dubai restaurant has yet been awarded three stars, which is the highest Michelin grade. It is given to venues that demonstrate “superlative cooking”, such that the dishes are “elevated to an art form” and are destined to become culinary classics.
The Michelin Guide has released this year’s list for Dubai, handing out one star to 11 restaurants, two stars to three restaurants and choosing 17 venues as part of its Bib Gourmand category.
The culinary group announced the 2023 list at a press conference at Atlantis The Royal on Tuesday. This brings the number of Dubai’s Michelin-starred restaurants from 11 – announced in June last year – to 14.
“Gastronomy has always been key to Dubai,” said Issam Kazim, chief executive of the Dubai Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing, during his opening speech at the ceremony. “Dubai is both a cosmopolitan city with a lot of different flavours, as well as one of the most visited places in the world right now.”
This year’s stars
A total of 11 restaurants got one Michelin star each, with 11 Woodfire, Al Muntaha, Armani/Ristorante, Hakkasan, Hoseki, Ossiano, Tasca by Jose Avillez and Torno Subito all retaining their single-star status.
New restaurants to obtain a star included Avatara, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Moonrise.
One star is conferred upon venues that use “top-quality ingredients, where dishes with distinct flavours are prepared to a consistently high standard”, according to the Michelin website.
Three restaurants secured two stars apiece. Il Ristorante – Niko Romito and Stay by Yannick Alleno both retained theirs, while Tresind Studio went from having one star to two.
Aside from food quality, the guide awards two stars to restaurants where the “personality and talent of the chef are evident in their expertly crafted dishes”.
“We were six months old when we got our first star. Now 11 Woodfire is a year old and we have found our own voice,” Akmal Anuar, chef and founder of 11 Woodfire, told The National. “We’ve ensured what gave us a star is delivered to all our patrons. It has been a year of push.”
No Dubai restaurant has yet been awarded three stars, which is the highest Michelin accolade. It is given to venues that demonstrate “superlative cooking”, such that the dishes are “elevated to an art form” and are destined to become culinary classics.
Bib Gourmand restaurants
Three new entrants made it to the Bib Gourmand category, which represents value-for-money spots. These are: Japanese-inspired venue 3Fils, Balkan restaurant 21grams and fine-dining Indian spot Aamara.
All 14 restaurants fromlast year’s list retained their Bib Gourmand status: Al Khayma, Bait Maryam, Brasserie Boulud, Fi’lia, folly, Goldfish, Ibn AlBahr, Indya by Vineet, Kinoya, Ninive, Orfali Bros, Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, Shabestan and Teible.
Named after Bibendum, the Michelin Man and official company mascot of the Michelin Group, the Bib Gourmand category is “not quite a star, but most definitely not a consolation prize,” according to the guide.
Stasha Toncev, founder of 21grams, said: “We have been privileged to bring Balkan cuisine to the forefront of the culinary world. This accolade and recognition from Michelin reflects our commitment to showcasing the rich flavours, vibrant traditions and diverse culinary heritage of the region.”
Special awards
A new category was introduced for 2023 – the Opening of the Year award. This was conferred upon chef Ariana Bundy for her restaurant Ariana’s Persian Kitchen located in Atlantis The Royal. “You don’t know what you’ve done for Iranian people and Iranian women,” Bundy said in a heartfelt speech at the ceremony.
Three restaurants won the coveted Michelin Green Star, which recognises restaurants with a strong sustainability approach. Last year’s winner Lowe retained its green star, while Boca and Teible were awarded one each this year, too. Omkar Walve of vegetarian-only restaurant Avatara took home the Young Chef Award. Elsewhere, the Service Award was won by Tomislav Lokvicic from La Mar by Gaston Acurio, while fellow Atlantis The Royal restaurant Dinner by Heston Blumenthal received the Sommelier Award, given to Arturo Scamardella.
Putting Dubai on the culinary map
Chefs and industry players have welcomed the Michelin Guide’s presence, and say it is a testament to the city’s rising dining scene. Immediately after the announcement of Tresind Studio’s one-star accolade last June, its head chef Himanshu Saini told The National how it was a moment of reflection to “evolve the cuisine even further and push for two stars”, which is exactly what Saini and his team have done.
A similar sentiment was shared by chef Niko Romito of Il Ristorante. He described the achievement as “a very important acknowledgement of our work and the vision”, and said it meant they will have to “keep in our direction, but enforce our efforts to constantly improve ourselves and do better”.
For chefs who have yet to earn the Michelin nod for their restaurants, the guide provides strong motivation.
“It sets a tone for competition among chefs to be the very best. This means we are always adapting and enhancing our culinary skills to do the next best thing. It also is a driving force for businesses, since a lot of people tend to visit your restaurant after obtaining a star,” says Manisha Advani, executive chef of MyGovinda’s and Soul Sante Cafe.
How Michelin stars are born
The famously anonymous Michelin inspectors are full-time employees, most of whom are former restaurant and hospitality professionals. After their random visits to restaurants, the team meets and discusses their experiences to make a final selection.
“The inspectors were amazed by what they discovered in the field, from heart-warming eateries and mesmerising hotels to the unique spark that Dubai has,” said Elisabeth Boucher-Anselin, director of communications for Michelin Experiences. Gwendal Poullennec, the guide’s international director, echoed this thought via a recorded video message, noting that the inspectors were impressed by the “growth and evolution of Dubai’s culinary scene over the past year”.
Five universal criteria are taken into consideration:
1. The quality of the ingredients
2. The mastery of cooking
3. The harmony of flavours
4. The personality of the chef reflected through the cuisine
5. The consistency both over time and across the entire menu
Service, according to the guide, has no bearing on a Michelin star.
These strict guidelines make the Michelin Guide a coveted list for chefs and restaurants, who also benefit from the customer pull of the stars. Gastro-tourism has grown over the years with many jet-setting foodies planning their trips around dining options.
We were six months old when we got our first star. Now 11 Woodfire is a year old and we have found our own voice AMAL ANUAR
Following on from the Dubai guide, Abu Dhabi got its first Michelin Guide last year, with a total of 42 restaurants making the cut, three of which got a Michelin star each. Michelin has not said yet when this year’s selection for the capital will be made.
“The Michelin Guide has historically elevated various cities’ culinary reputation and has attracted food enthusiasts worldwide, making each city that has a list worth travelling to,” said Pavel Nigai, the head chef of Katsuya at Hyde Dubai.
“For us, industry players, its presence inspires local restaurants to strive for excellence.”
Founder, 11 Woodfire