INDIAN ISLANDS MAKE WAVES AS TROPICAL TRAVEL DESTINATION
▶ Modi’s praise for Lakshadweep leads to increase in demand amid mass tourism warning and Maldives row, reports Teja Lele
Irecline on a sun lounger, a book propped up on my middle as I open my eyes to gaze at the shimmering sea. Is it aqua or jade? Cerulean or teal? Turquoise or emerald? can’t make up my mind on the exact hues, but I’m sure I haven’t seen such crystal-clear waters in a long, long time.
I’m in Lakshadweep, India’s tiniest union territory, which is spread over barely 32 square kilometres off the coast of Kochi, Kerala’s capital. These small islands are big on beauty, with lush green coconut palms, sun-kissed beaches and magnificent lagoons, all fringed by the gorgeous blue sea.
The name of the archipelago translates to “hundred thousand islands” from Malayalam, the local language, and Sanskrit. There are actually only 36 isles, of which barely 10 are inhabited, including Agatti, Bangaram, Kadmath, Kavaratti (the capital), Kalpeni and Minicoy.
The archipelago is spread out over 400,000 square kilometres of waters that are rich in marine life. But despite its natural beauty and proximity to mainland India, Lakshadweep has largely remained off many travellers’ bucket lists, on account of poor connectivity and cumbersome entry procedures for the territory.
The islands are also losing their coral reefs and facing the effects of climate change on “multiple levels”, according to a UN Development Programme report, which has led environmental experts to warn against mass tourism.
But after Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi this month posted images on social media of his visit to the islands, there has been a flurry of interest in the area.
“I am still in awe of the stunning beauty of its islands and the incredible warmth of its people,” Modi wrote. “For those who wish to embrace the adventurer in them, Lakshadweep has to be on your list.”
This prompted some social media users to suggest it was a more attractive destination than the Maldives, an island nation that relies on tourism for its economy and is visited by many Indian citizens. This led to a diplomatic row, with three Maldivian ministers being accused of making derogatory remarks about Modi. Indian celebrities, politicians and businesses have since come out in support of promoting local beach destinations.
The Maldives’ loss may be Lakshadweep’s gain. Raj Rishi Singh, chief marketing and business officer of online travel company MakeMyTrip, said the islands recorded a “remarkable” 3,400 per cent increase in on-platform searches since Modi’s visit.
Travel company Ixigo also posted on X that there had been a 2,900 per cent surge in searches.
The islands can only be reached from Kochi by sea and air. Entry permits are mandatory for all travellers and can be obtained through the government’s online portal.
Advance bookings are needed as only a certain number of tourists are allowed on the islands at any given time.
While the logistics take more effort than for other destinations, the bureaucracy will be forgotten once you’re on the islands, touching down at Agatti airport or pulling up on a cruise ship at Kavaratti, Kalpeni or Minicoy.
HR consultant Deepika Singh, who lives in Mumbai, visited Lakshadweep recently and says: “There’s so much to do and so little time.”
Agatti, the only island with an airport, spans 3.3 square kilometres and has a languorous pace. There are options galore for exploring the aquatic diversity. Sailing, fishing, water skiing and kayaking uncover rainbow-coloured fish, corals and turtles.
Not too far from Agatti is Andrott, the largest island of the archipelago and the closest to mainland India. Visitors can explore the lighthouse and should not miss the Buddhist ruins and the tomb of Saint Ubaidullah.
Crescent-shaped Minicoy, the second largest island, is closest to Nine Degree Channel, the busiest shipping port in the Arabian Sea. The silver-sand beaches and clear waters make it an excellent place to scuba dive and explore coral reefs.
Kavaratti, the most developed island, offers pristine white beaches and sleepy lagoons. As many as 52 mosques are spread out over the land, an area of barely four square kilometres.
Ujra mosque is renowned, as the water from a nearby well is said to have curative powers.
“The Dolphin Dive Centre is perfect for when you want a day out with dolphins, while the Kavaratti Aquarium is ideal for keeping kids engaged,” says Singh.
The beaches of Bangaram, a tiny teardrop-shaped island, offer soft white sands. At night, phosphorescent plankton often wash ashore, giving the beach an enchanting, bluish glow.
Almost all inhabited islands offer water sports, but Kadmat’s Water Sports Institute is the place to go for windsurfing, snorkelling and water skiing.
A local’s recommendation leads me to Pitti Bird Sanctuary, on a coral islet – a nesting place for pelagic birds, including the sooty tern, greater-crested tern and the brown noddy. A day trip can be taken from Agatti by ferry, speedboat or catamaran.
During my visit, I learn that islanders mainly relies on the area’s agricultural mainstay, coconut palms, for their livelihoods. Many also cultivate bananas, vegetables and millet. Fishing augments the region’s economy, with many fishermen continuing ancient customs of navigation and sailing in the traditional sewn odam boat.
While more than 95 per cent of Lakshadweep is populated by Muslims, islanders share strong cultural, ethnic, linguistic and cultural links with Malayalis, Kannadigas, Tamils and Arabs.
In Sources Towards a History of the Laccadive Islands, scholar Andrew Forbes writes that the first settlers on Lakshadweep were “Malabari sailors, quite possibly castaways”. He believes islanders converted to Islam over an extended period of time as the islands were on the trade route between the Arabian Peninsula and the Malabar Coast.
Today, people in the tropical paradise, which has a population of more than 65,000, are warm and friendly. A walk around the village often results in impromptu chats with locals, who make recommendations on what you should see and what you shouldn’t miss.
While the locals welcome tourists, experts worry the islands may not be able to handle the anthropogenic pressures of mass tourism.
Despite this, the recent Maldives-Lakshadweep controversy has led to a surge in investment in the islands. New infrastructure development projects, including an airport upgrade, new resorts and improved utility services, have been announced. Tata Group’s Indian Hotels Company plans to launch two Taj-branded resorts in the next two years.
Local authorities are also actively promoting cruise tourism. Waterways Leisure
At night, phosphorescent plankton often wash ashore on Bangaram, giving the beach an enchanting, bluish glow
Tourism, which operates Cordelia Cruises to Lakshadweep, has reported a 2,500 per cent increase in booking enquiries in recent days.
“It is imperative to monitor reef health, ensure effective fishery management and follow responsible tourism practices,” says marine biologist Prachi Hatkar, who advises people to dive responsibly, avoid physical contact with reef organisms and to avoid anchoring boats on the reef.
The UNDP report, The Great Coral Grief of Lakshadweep Islands, says reefs are slowly bleaching. “This makes it vital that the government and people both ensure responsible tourism practices and continuously monitor the fragile ecosystem of this gorgeous archipelago,” says Hatkar.
As I step into the waves of a serene beach after a delicious seafood meal, I contemplate Lakshadweep’s many charms. I’m overjoyed to be here, but I realise not all island escapes are the same – and we must preserve this one no matter what.