Chefs from down under are on top at Ras Al Khaimah village pop-up
Alittle more than an hour’s drive from Downtown Dubai is an ancient village. The forgotten area in Ras Al Khaimah has been abandoned since the late 1960s.
Described by many as a “ghost town”, Al Jazeera Al Hamra Heritage Village is riddled with nautical folklore of the pearling community that once thronged its alleyways.
This weekend, the village begins hosting Ras Al Khaimah Fine Arts Festival, an event partly aimed at demystifying the venerable ruins.
More than a dozen of the restored stone houses will be turned into makeshift exhibition spaces, others into pop-up restaurants or cafes. One of those also finds its origins in a remote rural town.
Antica Australis, run by husband and wife chefs Paolo and Kelly Picarazzi, calls Carcoar home. The sleepy town in New South Wales has a population of between 200 and 300.
For frequent RAK revellers such as myself, who tend to visit the popular pristine beaches of Al Marjan Island, the heritage village is a remarkable change of scenery. There are about 450 buildings on the historical site and most remain untouched.
Buildings that have already been restored are marked with signs that include an old picture, the full name of its owner and other details.
“Owner: Hayee Abdullah Qadeeb Al Zaabi,” reads the sign where Antica Australis temporarily resides.
It’s a complex with small blocks surrounding a spacious courtyard and, at the centre, an old ghaf tree has been preserved amid the renovations.
As in the original Antica Australia, most of the cooking is done by Paolo, who is from Italy. Using ancient cooking techniques and traditional ingredients, the couple recreate medieval recipes as an ode to Paolo’s roots.
The restaurant is “in the middle of nowhere in Australia”, says Kelly. The couple have an unorthodox way of serving diners, too. “There is no menu,” she adds. “We feed them what we are cooking at the time.”
The dining journey starts even before the antipasti is served. A passionate Kelly welcomes our party to the
temporary bayt (Arabic for house). Stepping inside the heritage village surrounded by rubble that feels at once ancient and majestic, I am transported not to a different era, but a different world altogether. I am given a glimpse of the simple lives of the people who previously reigned over this labyrinthine enclave.
Part of the ethos of Antica Australis is its commitment to the responsible sourcing of ingredients. Back in Australia, the couple personally drive to surrounding farms to get what they need.
For the pop-up, many of the ingredients are plucked from private organic farms owned by Sheikh Saud bin Saqr Al Qasimi, Ruler of Ras Al Khaimah.
“His Highness has been so supportive of what we’re doing. He’s personally passionate about sustainable farming,” says Kelly.
She explains they were taken to three farms, where they were given organic produce including olives, Sidr honey and dates.
“We were taken to this very special farm on the side of a mountain … I can’t even tell you where it was, we were driven there, and it’s just so incredible,” she says.
“He wanted to share his produce with us, so we could share it with those who will join us at the pop-up. We strongly believe in eating in context. There’s a reason things grow in the place you are in.”
The four-course set menus – which change every week
– feature Italian dishes such as risotto and polenta.
However, Paolo is an adventurous chef and believes it is important for them to tweak the traditional recipes to incorporate local flavours.
“It’s a process of experimentation,” he explains, as terracotta plates of the colourful antipasti make their way out of the kitchen.
The first course is fried polenta with Ciociarian truffle salsa. It is served with watermelon tartare garnished with chunks of goat’s cheese and anchovy.
The richness of the truffle and cheese is balanced with the freshness of the watermelon. The polenta itself is the perfect canvas for the salsa’s kick of umami.
A mascarpone risotto follows, cooked al dente, with pink peppercorns and toasted macadamia nuts for texture.
However, the star of the meal is undoubtedly the barramundi (or giant sea perch) poached in parsley oil and thyme.
The fish is both firm and delicate, complemented by a side of caramelised pepper and fried cauliflower.
The meal ends with a saffroninfused camel’s milk pudding, topped with popcorn and organic date molasses for a faint caramel profile. A stovetop espresso is also served, alongside traditional Ciociarian Amaretti biscuit.
Exceptional cooking and tastes aside, it is the tales that make this dining experience evermore special – as Kelly weaves personal anecdotes in between every course. After all, Antica Austalis is all about “serving food and stories”.
Stepping inside the heritage village, I am transported not to a different era, but a different world altogether
Antica Australia pop-up has two sittings at 1pm and 7pm, from Saturday to February 18; from Dh300 per person. Ras Al Khaimah Fine Arts Festival runs until February 29; rakart.ae