DO I THINK THE AMBANI WEDDING LOCATION IS WORTH THE HYPE? I DO
▶ Offering unbridled happiness, Jamnagar will provide the perfect backdrop for India’s marriage of the year, reports Anita Rao Kashi
One of India’s – nay, the world’s – biggest weddings of the year is around the corner. Before the main event, there are weeks of pre-wedding celebrations in the build-up to the marriage of Anant Ambani, the youngest son of Indian billionaire Mukesh Ambani, and Radhika Merchant, the glamorous daughter of industrialist Viren Merchant.
The marriage ceremony will take place in Jamnagar and the decorated guestlist includes leaders from business, Bollywood and politics. And within minutes of setting eyes on the landscape, I can see why one day of celebrations in Jamnagar simply won’t suffice.
Driving along India’s western coast in Gujarat, the views are a mishmash of bare fields, lush greenery and occasional glimpses of the blue-green waters of the Gulf of Kutch fronted by golden sands. It’s a drive that can make you drowsy.
But sweeping into Jamnagar city changes that instantly. The first impression is that of a city with a rich and long history, as shown by stunning buildings and architecture that are indicative of several influences.
Spending a few days and weaving leisurely through the city adds layers and complexity to early impressions. So it is only apt that the city is called the jewel of the Kathiawar region.
This is the city of cricket player Sir Ranjitsinhji, after whom the famed Ranji Trophy is named, and former ruler of Nawanagar, which later became Jamnagar. Famous Indian cricketer Ravindra Jadeja is also from here.
Jamnagar has been enjoying a recent boon in headlines as Ambani, one of the world’s richest men, prepares for his youngest son to tie the knot.
His company, Reliance Industries Limited, operates one of the world’s largest oil refining complexes in the area.
Top Bollywood stars, world leaders, as well as heads of some of the world’s most
renowned business leaders, including Mark Zuckerberg and Bill Gates, are set to attend the three-day festivities, which are rumoured to include a performance by pop star Rihanna.
None of these aspects are front of mind as I wander around the city, though. Rather, it quickly becomes apparent that Jamnagar is a beautiful amalgamation of rich history, ornate forts, culture, art, craft and delectable cuisine.
It was founded in 1540 by Jam Raval, a Jadeja Rajput leader. While on a hunting trip in the region, variously referred to as Kathiawar and Saurashtra, Raval’s hunting hounds were supposedly intimidated by hares that chased them away. Impressed and deducing that men born on such land would be superior to others, he founded Nawanagar, or New Town. It served as the capital of the eponymous princely state and held sway for more than four centuries. In his honour, the name was later changed to Jamnagar.
While the story is fascinating, and it is tempting to look to for brave hares and heroic men, it is soon evident that Jamnagar’s heart lies in its warm and welcoming people whose hospitality reflects the essence of Gujarat’s cultural riches.
In a city of exquisite palaces and stunning forts, it is
difficult to choose where to begin, but the best place to start is at the Lakhota Palace and Museum.
This early 19th-century marvel, rising amid Lakhota Lake, was once a majestic fortress with the lake acting as a moat. It depicts a mix of architectures, but is predominantly Rajput in style.
I wander around the fort, marvelling at the four watchtowers. Built as an early warning system, the towers offer views of the surrounding areas. A museum within the palace also houses a fascinating collection of archaeological finds, weaponry and paintings, narrating Jamnagar’s royal past. I am especially fascinated by the life-sized elephant carriage and listen transfixed to stories of royal goings-on narrated by a docent.
With my head reeling from regal tales, I step out and get a rush of another kind. A fiery lunch comprising rotla (pearl millet bread) with spicy curries and khichdi engages the senses. Suitably fortified, I head to my next stop – Bhujiyo Kotho.
Dating back to the second century, these ancient Buddhist cave temples, carved into sandstone cliffs, amaze me with their intricate carvings that depict the life of Buddha, as well as scenes from the Jataka tales and other legends. Among one of the earliest Buddhist monuments in western India, the caves make for a mesmerising experience.
According to legend, the king of Jamnagar and Bhuj were brothers who established their kingdoms about 300km apart. It is believed that Bhujiyo Kotho was the entrance to a secret passage from Jamnagar to Bhuj, used by the brothers to keep in touch. As the sun sets, I escape the city’s rhythm at Ranmal Lake Park. Named after King Ranmalji, another illustrious ruler of Jamnagar, it is an artificial lake that dates back to the 15th century. For centuries, it served as the city’s main water source, but is now the perfect spot for tranquility. The sprawling lake surrounded by lush greenery is ideal for a stroll or a boat ride.
It is time leave the next morning, but I try to delay it as much as possible to pack in a few things, such as Shree Subhash Market in the heart of the city. A vibrant 18th century market, it pulsates with energy and has a variety of offerings, including fresh produce, spices and local handicrafts.
I have to tear myself away from the enticing goods on display but succumb a few times. From here, I make a quick stop at Darbar Gadh, also known as Willingdon Crescent, a 19th-century fort, and visit the Khijadia Bird Sanctuary, which is home to more than 220 species of birds – including pelicans and spoonbills.
As I leave, my mind is spinning with stories and sights from its rich history, vibrant culture and brilliant cuisine. As far as wedding locations go, Jamnagar is worth the hype.
Jamnagar is a beautiful amalgamation of rich history, ornate forts, culture, art, craft and delectable cuisine