BUCA DI BEPPO Is bigger really better at this new Italian?

hile portion size in the UAE typically errs on the overgenerous, Buca Di Beppo, the new American-Italian restaurant at Yas Mall, takes it to a whole new level. Guests of this family-style eatery can order items in a variety of sizes, from individual helpings to plates that can feed “an average-sized country”, according to the menu.

The two-storey restaurant is homey but certainly not boring. It looks like how you’d expect a slightly boisterous Italian American granny to be. Red checked tablecloths, colourful walls and hundreds of framed pictures cram the walls for a dash of personality. The artwork features clichéd images of Italy (think mobsters, Roman emperors and plates of overflowing food) and also a handful of B-list celebrities sampling the restaurant’s (it’s part of a chain) famous giant, half-pound meatballs.

To sample the recommended dish, in

Wa more manageable size, try the mini meatball sliders, which were served simply on soft baps and topped with melted mozzarella and marinara. While other appetisers (the stuffed mushrooms and the bruschetta) didn’t quite deliver in the same way as the sliders, they would easily satisfy a hungry crowd.

That’s the line of thinking when it comes to the pizzas and pastas too. Big portions and traditional flavours to share. The arrabbiata pizza was a winner. However, the shrimp fra diavolo pasta in a pink sauce was more sweet than spicy.

For dessert try the Italian crème cake, a lemon sponge with an airy, mascarpone filling or, if it’s a crowd you need to feed, the colossal brownie sundae with 12 brownies and six scoops of vanilla ice cream.

While you may certainly have to think big when dining here, rest assured you won’t leave hungry.

Yas Mall, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, Sun to Wed 10am to 11pm, Thur to Sat 10am to midnight. Tel: (02) 6656247. Taxi: Yas Mall, in front of Ferrari World. bucadibeppo.ae