BUTCHER & STILL

Take a trip to 1930s Chicago at this new steakhouse

There are many places to devour a huge slab of beef in Abu Dhabi, but for once, a new outlet is putting a different spin on the steakhouse concept. Butcher & Still is influenced by America’s speakeasy, Prohibition era of the 1930s, and in particular Chicago.

It’s a classy looking joint. Art deco influences are evident in the architecture, and while the curved leather sofas scream Mad Men, there’s also more homely touches, such as bunches of barley in wooden crates and tatty old cooking trays. The staff are neatly turned out in white bow ties and the stereo plays classic, trad jazz. You half expect to see Al Capone propping up the bar (and curiously, they have a secret dining room that has a ceiling designed to look like the gangster’s prison cell).

While the menu is heavy on the steaks, it also has plenty of seafood on offer, including a Grand Seafood Tower featuring oysters, octopus ceviche and scallops.

To start, What’s On opted for the 99 Per Cent Lump Crab Cake made with scallop, remoulade and lemon. It was a decent way to start, and the tasty crab flesh was juicy and substantial and had to be prised apart with a little tug by a fork. Another starter of bone marrow was a curious affair. The fatty texture of the marrow didn’t excite on its own but worked well when combined with grilled bread and garlic jam. For mains, try the Kansas City Strip (cooked medium rare), a mammoth, boneless 14oz strip loin. It was a phenomenal piece of steak, extremely tender and juicy and perfectly seasoned. The hickory smoked beef short ribs also hit the spot. You only had to glance at the beef for it to fall apart, although some might find its barbecue sauce a little sickly by the end, especially as it was served on a slice of sweet white bread. There’s a big section of sides on the menu, including some excellent chunky truffle fries, although skip the lobster mac and cheese. Despite the huge slabs of seafood, the dish was surprisingly bland. Where’s the cheese?

Finally, saving room for dessert is a must, in particular the apple and key lime pies. Both portions were gigantic, possibly the biggest puddings we’ve seen in the city, and both excelled, especially the creamy key lime with its sturdy crust.

Butcher & Still certainly impressed – the food on the whole was of a high standard, and the staff are jovial and friendly, but never stray from being slick and professional. We’ll be back soon.

Four Seasons Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi, daily 6pm to midnight. Tel: (02) 3332700. Taxi: Four Seasons. fourseaons.com