CAFé NIKKI Can this new St Tropezinspired brunch really transport you to the French Riviera?

all us biased, but the setting was more stunning than the south of France. Sitting on a sun-drenched patio overlooking an infinity pool, which stretched out towards the Arabian Gulf, for five minutes at Café Nikki was enough to forget about a long workweek.

The self-titled “urban bistro”, found at the recently opened Nikki Beach Resort & Spa, promises to whisk diners away to the Côte d’Azur at their new weekly brunch. And the intent is evident from the outset, from the rustic raffia runners and sprigs of lavender on the table to the classic white crockery.

But is the food equally as chic? The set-up certainly is – forget pacing back and forth to the buffet; here you get six dishes served to your table. However, for those worried about the smaller plates, never fear – there are two buffet sections to quell any

Chunger between courses, one dedicated to seafood (with prawns so gigantic they could be the Arnold Schwarzenegger of the sea), and the other a mixture of salads, fresh breads and hot pots.

The hero dish of the day was easily the boeuf bourguignon, loaded with hearty chunks of meat that split at the gentlest push of the knife. The truffle-infused hunks of crusty baguette made mopping up the thick, moreish gravy a real delight, as we bemoaned the fact we hadn’t been served a vat of the stuff.

The vegetable broth, sea bass and charcuterie were all perfectly passable, but it’s the pudding and pastries that delivered the second most memorable moment. From a fruit gratin that was a little sweet, a little savoury, and plenty tart, to strawberry, cream and chai-infused choux buns, we pushed our waistbands to their breaking points.

So if the idea of a rowdy, dancing-ontables-by-3pm brunch is your idea of a living nightmare, pop on your stretchiest smart dress and give this one a whirl.

Café Nikki, Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai, Pearl Jumeirah, Dubai, Fri 12.30pm to 4pm. Dhs310 with soft drinks, Dhs395 with house drinks, Dhs140 under-12s, under-fives free. Tel: (04) 3766000. Taxi: Nikki Beach Resort & Spa. nikkibeachhotels.com/dubai