SOLE Out with Bice and in with Sole, but can this new seafood spot catch the attention of Abu Dhabi residents hook, line and sinker?

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Etihad Towers became Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers. And as often happens when individuals move on from a relationship, changes have been made to help ensure a clean split.

In one of the most exciting postbreak-up developments, Conrad has moved in a new Italian restaurant, Sole. It replaces its predecessor Bice, with – we’re informed –much more than just superficial changes.

There will undoubtedly be some that greet the news of a new Italian restaurant in the capital with a sort of casual ennui.

‘Do we really need another one?’

They’ll ask.

And the answer rather hangs on whether or not it’s any good. So, there’s a genuine sense of anticipation as we take a seat on the restaurant’s Podium terrace.

It’s a smart venue, fancy even. Low overhead lighting and individually illuminated tables, give the dining experience a cosy, intimate feel despite the eatery’s spacious layout.

We begin our investigation of the new Mediterranean suitor, with an eggplant

Lparmigiana — the Naples Staple.

It’s served to the table in a bijou cocotte pot, inside a thatch-work melange of thin aubergine tranches have been baked in a rich tomato ragu, with buffalo mozzarella, basil and crumbly parmesan.

A simple course, but we’re happy to go on record as saying, probably qualifies as one of the best new dishes we’ve tried this year. It’s rural European comfort food at its best. There’s a hearty vegetable backbone to the flavour, luxurious spoonfuls of fondant cheese, and a distinctly botanical endnote courtesy of the fresh basil.

The main course is a char-grilled rib eye, cooked in duck fat and served with roasted potatoes, asparagus and a spicy salsa verde. The quality of the cut, the seasoning, the accompaniments, everything about this dish demonstrates culinary skill and an eye for balance.

One further note of appreciation here. Using a rosemary-infused salsa verde as the lead condiment is an intelligent, refreshing move. It’s a subtle partner, not overpowering, functioning more as a postgrill marinade than a sauce. Dessert was a neatly executed scoop of sorbet. *Shrugs shoulders* when in Rome.

Verdict: It turns out that we did need another Italian restaurant, and this one specifically. The standard of cuisine puts the restaurant in the top tier of Abu Dhabi eateries.

ConradAbuDhabi,Tel:(0)28115666. Etihadtowers.FBReservations@ conradhotels.com