FIFTH AVENUE

Does the UAE need a Donald Trump-owned restaurant?

hether the US president’s involvement in Trump International Golf Club Dubai goes much beyond the gold sign at the entrance is anyone’s guess – he left the overseeing of the official opening to his sons – but, surrounded by dancing fountains and palm trees, you can’t deny that he has bagged himself a nice shiny spot in the desert.

We’re led alongside Trump’s overly grandiose clubhouse to a “floating” cabana, surrounded by fire pit-studded waters and overlooking the greens of the 18-hole course. Two golfers were finishing their round as the sun set. The golf club currently houses four food spots – we’re here to sample the Italian cuisine at Fifth Avenue.

The décor – brushed gold finishes, leather-backed chairs and polished marble – was as ostentatious as you’d expect; the restaurant, empty, except for us, due in equal measure, we suspect, to frustrating road works and boycotts. In short, the ambiance is lacking, verging on awkward.

But we’re not here to judge a restaurant on its owner’s political dealings. We’re here to talk food. And when it comes to that, Fifth Avenue comes up trumps.

The calamari and shrimps (Dhs78), though simple in theory, was coated in the lightest, crispiest batter we’d ever tasted, and the spicy tomato dip lent it just the kick it needed.

Italian-born executive chef Fernando Galbiati prepares a fantastic Tortelli ‘Plin style’ (Dhs95) pasta dish – pockets of pasta oozing with burrata cheese, served over a slather of green pea sauce and artichokes. The crusted sea bass (Dhs399) was a flashy affair, a grand silver tray laden with a medley of Mediterranean vegetables, roast potatoes

Wand aromatic fish filleted was served tableside. The rock salt and herb crust left the underlying flesh moist, impeccably seasoned and only in need of a dash of olive oil for accompaniment. Dessert was a deconstructed smoked raspberry tart (Dhs55) – complete with smokefilled glass lifted from on top of the fresh raspberries theatrically at the table. A spoonful of custard, smokeinfused raspberries, mint and crunchy tart had us hungry for more.

Will Fifth Avenue be given the chance to impress Dubai residents? Social media would suggest it has an uphill battle. The staff here have nothing to do with politics, though. They are here to do a job – and they do it well. DamacaHills,aDubai,adailya6pmaa toamidnight.aTel:a(04)a245a3939.aa Taxi:aTrumpaInternationalaGolfaCluba Dubai.atrumpgolfdubai.com