CHEZ CHARLES
Could there really be another good restaurant in D3?
For a relatively new suburb, Dubai Design District has really come into its own this year as a haven for great food. It’s home to the likes of The Lighthouse (one of our favourite new restaurants), and the brand-new Molecule (read our review on p45). So when we heard that high-end catering company Chez Charles was putting down roots there too, we had high hopes.
With group executive chef Jeremy Degras (formerly of Michelin-starred Le Quartier Gourmand) at the helm, the menu promises plenty of French classics, with an international twist.
The Burgundy snails à la Provençale (Dhs46) are recommended emphatically, and ordered tentatively. They tasted excellent. The garlic butter, herbs and tomato combination was heavenly. We went from a Fear Factor scenario to polishing the plate clean. The highlights extended to the main course. The whole sea bass (Dhs225) was stuffed with lemons and romaine hearts, decapitated and served tableside. The moist fish was served with vegetable dressing – a crunchy, flavourful mix of pine nuts, cauliflower, lemon, olives and more. The braised lamb shank (Dhs158) fell off the bone and the combination of prune, almond and coriander left it doused in rich, tart gravy. Now, please excuse us as we wax lyrical about a side dish. The Venere rice (Dhs34), once a dish reserved for Chinese emperors, was a creamy, delicious mound of black rice, thanks to a heavy dose of butter and Parmesan. For dessert, try the melt-in-your-mouth tropezienne (Dhs44). A brioche light and drenched in orange blossom, it disintegrates the moment it touches your tongue. The chocolate moelleux (Dhs40) was a fondant for the ages, served straight from the oven, so piping-hot chocolate and pistachio oozed in every direction.
Chez Charles not only held its own against the D3 heavyweights, it’s carved itself its own spot at the top.
Building 11, Dubai Design District, Dubai, Sat to Wed noon to 1am, Thur and Fri noon to 2am. Tel: (04) 5122444. Taxi: Dubai Design District. chezcharles.ae