EAT

Another reason to eat at d3 with the opening of Molecule; plus 3 Fils, Dukes and Quattro Passi

Every now and then we visit a new restaurant that feels just right. Play, Couqley, Ruya, Demoiselle: they’re not all the flashiest or the finest – but each one has warmth and an energy that makes us want to go back.

Molecule in the Dubai Design District is the latest on that list. A refreshingly small bistro for Dubai (it seats around 60), the food is of the ‘warm the cockles’ variety and the price point is good – it feels like a swish night out, but you’ll pay from Dhs60 for a main.

The first thing that strikes you once you manoeuvre the outdoor seating and arrive inside is the attention to design detail. An undulating wooden sculpture makes up the entire ceiling of the restaurant, the walls feature a different Third Line Gallery exhibition every month or so and the crockery is artisanally wonky. The resident DJ also plays an intelligent and diverse soundtrack that’ll leave you shazzaming all night.

The menu is seasonal, in a global rather than local sense, so it changes every few months. We have it on good authority, however, that they will keep most of the favourites. These include the molecule salad (Dhs39), which combines the fresh flavours of celeriac, fennel, chicory and hazelnut to excellent effect.

Meanwhile, the aubergine with labneh and pomegranate (Dhs43) is perfectly piquant, thanks to a healthy smattering of sumac.

As for the mains, the ginormous portion of lamb rack (Dhs97) is best shared: the sweetness of sultanas cuts through the fattiness of the meat; while the Chilean sea bass (Dhs118) falls apart at the mere prick of a knife, the buttery croutons adding just enough naughtiness to the dish. And we’d travel back to D3 for the mash potatoes alone (Dhs22), which are silky, creamy and confidently calorific. While we quite enjoyed the dessert – the mysterious Arabica with pear, chocolate and ice cream (Dhs35) – but far preferred the savoury dishes, so we’ll choose more starters and skip dessert next time. And visit again we will – a fun night out for three people here cost us just over Dhs600.

Building 6, Dubai Design District, Dubai, daily noon to 2am. Tel: (04) 2454700. Taxi: Dubai Design District. facebook.com/moleculedxb