What’s so spe­cial about the Irani-Parsi cafés in Mum­bai any­way?

What's On (Dubai) - - CONSUME EAT // REVIEW -

ot quite sure what Irani-Parsi cui­sine in 1950s In­dia would en­tail? New restau­rant Moombai & Co is hop­ing to shed a lit­tle light on it. The lat­est ad­di­tion to the H Ho­tel does au­then­tic Irani-Parsi food in a café made to re­sem­ble the clas­sic cafés of Mum­bai, which once flour­ished in the city.

Walk­ing into the cosy restau­rant with its red brick walls, cav­ernous ceil­ings,

Ntat­tered Bol­ly­wood posters and elon­gat­ed­stem fans hang­ing over­head felt warm and wel­com­ing.

For the unini­ti­ated, the mul­ti­coloured menu is quite tricky to nav­i­gate, but the friendly staff are on hand to help you out. The akuri cheese toast (Dhs25) im­me­di­ately caught our at­ten­tion. It’s a tra­di­tional yet sim­ple Parsi spe­cial­ity made of scram­bled eggs with cheese and tasted as gooey as you’d hope. Mean­while, the tareli kolmi (Dhs65), a spicy blend of gin­ger and gar­lic mar­i­nated prawns with curry leaves, burst with fresh­ness and flavour.

For a proper Parsi del­i­cacy, try the pa­tra ni machi (Dhs85), fish mar­i­nated in green chut­ney and wrapped in ba­nana leaves. The fish is per­fectly ten­der while the del­i­cate over­tures from the chut­ney gen­tly trick­led through to add a soft sweet­ness to the dish. Even the sali marghi (Dhs80), a hum­ble chicken curry with pota­toes, was a party pa­rade of flavours, equally spicy and tex­tured.

To fin­ish, the kulfi falooda (Dhs45) made of creamy re­duced milk, ver­mi­celli and rose syrup was a sweet way to end a fun meal.

If it’s food cooked with love in a causal en­vi­ron­ment that you’re after, then Moombai & Co will soon be­come a firm favourite.

H Ho­tel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, Sat to Wed 11am to mid­night, Thur and Fri 11am to 1am. Tel: (04) 5018607. Taxi: H Ho­tel.

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