A slice of Europe finds a happy home in a fancy French store

What's On (Dubai) - - CONSUME EAT // REVIEW -

Euro­pean road-trip, graz­ing on the best dishes from the Med, is the stuff of sab­bat­i­cal dreams. If you can’t es­cape the work­ing world for that long we sug­gest you head down to Izu Brasserie to get your fix in­stead. Set within the French de­part­ment store Le BHV Marais in City Walk, Izu Brasserie is a ca­sual space with a long counter top, lit­tle wooden ta­bles lin­ing a nar­row din­ing room on one side of the store, and a cosy bak­ery set-up on the other. The man in charge, Izu Ani, is prac­ti­cally a lo­cal trea­sure and has a smile as wide as his re­sumé. He was the head chef at La Petite Mai­son and its ri­val La Serre, and the part owner of glo­ri­ous d3 café The Light­house. The Izu Brasserie is just one in a string of open­ings he’s plan­ning over the next six months.

You must start your jour­ney in Spain with a slice of Span­ish tor­tilla (Dhs50). Served with a de­li­cious sweet onion rel­ish, the tor­tilla has a de­light­fully pert wob­ble to it, pep­pered with chunks of sweet potato and onion, but still man­ages to feel light. One mouth­ful and you’ll be trans­ported to a tiny café off the coast of Barcelona.

Next, we head to Italy for fresh pizza with buf­falo moz­zarella, an­chovy and ca­pers (Dhs65). This was fol­lowed by a plate of bur­rata (Dhs65), which paired its milky sweet­ness with the salty punch of pesto; give us a por­tion of fresh br­uschetta on the side, and this would have been

Aa main meal in it­self. It’s not all strictly Euro­pean food, though. The Izu Burger (Dhs85) com­prises slices of beef (rather than a patty) sand­wiched into a beau­ti­fully but­tered brioche bun.

To fin­ish, the de­con­structed ti­ramisu (Dhs50) was a fab­u­lous con­fec­tion of cream, cof­fee and sponge laid on the plate like a pyra­mid. It was the best we’d ever eaten, and we’ve eaten a lot of ti­ramisu.

By the way, if you want to im­press Izu when you’re there, talk to your food. Say hello to each dish when it ar­rives. That’s what he does when he’s cook­ing. He says that’s how he gets to know his food. Judg­ing by the won­der­ful meal we had, he’s a pretty sweet talker.

BHV Marais, City Walk, Dubai, Sun to Thur 11am to 11pm, Fri and Sat 11am to 1am. Tel: (04) 4033030. Taxi: City Walk. face­book.com/izubrasserie

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