KUSHI BY REIF

A big name moves into Depachika Food Hall. Is it same same but different?

hen you think of mall food, premium doesn’t generally come to mind – but that’s where Depachika is different. The Japanese dining destination, found in Palm Jumeirah’s Nakheel Mall, is home to an ever-growing number of homegrown concepts, each offering top quality dining options.

One such option, and the new kid on the block, is former Zuma chef Reif Othman’s latest venture, Kushi by Reif. After the roaring success of his first solo project, Reif Japanese Kushiyaki in Dar Wasl Mall, the acclaimed chef is back with a more paired back (but equally as exciting) concept.

Kushi by Reif is described as ‘same same but different’ – a Japanese soul food grab and go stall. It has a counter-style set up with stools set against the service bar and a small number of tables. The menu is concise, only including the best of Japanese basics, from ramen to kushi.

The star of the show is Reif ’s signature Wagyu sando (Dhs158). It’s more than we’d pay for a sandwich but can’t deny how good it is. Humble white toasted bread encases the marinated Wagyu exploding with flavour and juices – prepare to get messy as you dive into this one.

We’re advised to try the fries too, which are delicious. Despite being smothered with a creamy truffle mayonnaise (Dhs48) the chips remain crunchy, crispy and textured.

We could’ve reordered the beef gyoza (Dhs48) again if we had any space left. Light and fluffy dumplings came out piping hot with a crispy underside and sweet soy sauce on the side.

WAcross from the Kushi counter is a patisserie display with some of Reif ’s most notable creations. The tiramisu boba (Dhs38) is an interesting choice (it’s wrapped with plastic so that when you peel away the casing, the dish flows out like a broken dam).

We can only manage a slice of goma cheesecake (Dhs36, but it’s worth rocking the unbuttoned jeans look for). Using black sesame, the dish avoids becoming over-sweet and cleverly combines crunchy and creamy textures to create a wonderfully simple dessert.

Stepping up the mall food game is the hand-picked selection of mini restaurants in Depachika. Kushi by Reif is a brilliant addition and one well-worth making a trip to, or if you’re not a mall-lover check them out on Deliveroo.

Food Hall, Nakheel Mall, Palm Jumeirah, daily 10am to 10pm.

Tel: (050) 423 1885. @kushibyreif