DIY BIKE TUNE- UP
For many of us, the thought of getting our hands oily as we tinker with our bike to make that annoying noise go away, or stop the brakes rubbing, just before a race fills us with dread. However, if you regularly tweak your bike, you can get to know it better and enjoy it more in the long run.
FRAME
Give your bike a good rinse and follow it up with a quick covering of bike cleaner. Let it soak in for 30secs, then wash it off. Using a hose is absolutely fine, but a bucket and sponge or cloth will always do a more thorough job. Afterwards, give the bike a wipe down to dry it off and remove any stubborn muck.
DRIVETRAIN
If you don’t have a drivetrain-cleaning kit, then a spray degreaser, an old rag and a used toothbrush will do the job. Spray degreaser onto the cassette while rotating the pedals backwards – this will also coat the chain as it passes across the cassette. Use the toothbrush to get into the sprockets, and run the chain through the rag to clean it. Ideally with a drip lube, apply lubricant to the chain while rotating the pedals backwards. Run through the gears, then use a rag to remove any excess.
WHEELS
Bolt-thru axles are fairly straightforward, but if you don’t have them, undo the quick release and, with the bike standing upright, make sure the axle is seated properly in the dropouts. Tighten the quick release again, checking that the wheel doesn’t pull to one side as you do. Spin the wheel and ensure that it runs true, inspecting the tyre for any damage.
BRAKES
Rim brakes can be adjusted in several ways but, importantly, you need to check that everything is secure. Make sure mounting bolts are tight – find these in the back of the fork and the underside of the seatstay bridge in the case of single-bolt brakes, or at the pivots of direct-mount brakes. Check that the pads are tight and aligned with the braking surface. Pull the lever while watching the brake – if the pads don’t contact the rim at the same time, adjust the balance bolt until they do. Discs rarely need as much maintenance, but spin the wheel in a quiet place so that you can hear if the brake is dragging. A slight drag is common but if it’s visibly slowing the wheel down, back off the tension of the bolts holding the caliper one at a time, moving the caliper. It’ll only need moving a fraction. Put a piece of paper on the floor behind where you’re looking through the caliper to give some contrast. This will enable you to see the gap between the pads and the rotor. Ensure the caliper doesn’t move when you tighten the bolts back up.
BOLTS
Go over the whole bike and make sure nothing needs tightening. As long as everything is secure, don’t go cranking it up any more – a lot of things can be adversely affected by being overtightened.