Accrington Observer

HOUSE PLANT CARE

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DID you receive a beautiful orchid for Christmas?

If so, it could last for years with the right care, says Hannah Stephenson

These exotic-looking houseplant­s may have a reputation for being tricky, but they are really not if you just follow a few rules.

Orchids, which originate from South East Asia, are not as fragile as they seem and really don’t like too much fuss.

Most of them are pretty tough and they are getting easier to grow as nurseries bring out new varieties. It’s generally overwateri­ng that kills them.

Most hybrids come from warm, humid forests and like a warm, tropical climate.

Trends are changing as people start to shy away from the big, showy flowers to the more dainty, subtle and smaller flowered types. Slipper orchids (Paphiopedi­lums), popular in Victorian times with their waxy leaves and lip-shaped pouch at the front of the flower, are again becoming popular. The flowers are usually long-lasting and can remain in bloom for months.

Moth orchids (Phalaenops­is) are probably the most popular and are well suited to life indoors, requiring a minimum temperatur­e of 16C (61F).

There are many myths about orchids – that they are difficult to grow and that they must be shaded. In fact, they do well on a windowsill and flower more freely if you give them some sun.

However, don’t make the mistake of moving them from somewhere very shaded into direct sunlight or they will suffer leaf scorch.

Another myth is about misting them. Orchids don’t need misting. They can be left without water for a week then submerse the pot in a bowl of tepid water for a few minutes until it is moist all through, take it out and leave it on the draining board for the same amount of time, until the excess water has come out, before returning it to its permanent spot. Then leave it for another week. The plant should be allowed to dry out between watering.

Put half strength orchid feed in with the water each time you water the plant.

Once they’ve finished flowering, use a pair of sharp secateurs to cut the flowered stem back to just above a joint, two or three joints up from the base.

It should draw up another spike within a few weeks.

Orchids don’t have a yearly cycle of producing flowers. They can develop flower spikes at any time of the year. They have rambling roots which spread across the surface of the pot, searching for nutrients.

The roots contain chlorophyl­l and produce energy from light, so growing them in open lattice baskets or clear pots is better.

That way you are also more likely to notice if the roots are wet or dry.

Orchids need bright light, but not direct sunlight. They benefit from extra artificial light in winter to encourage flowering, in an ideal room temperatur­e of around 20C (68F) and phalaenops­is don’t like the cool nights favoured by some other types, so don’t let the temperatur­e inside fall lower than around 18C.

However, they do need a resting period after flowering. I generally put them on a windowsill out of direct sunlight in a cool room, until they start to show signs of new growth again.

Moth orchids should be repotted about once a year – you can buy specific compost for orchids from garden centres and while it is expensive, it’s worth it. Don’t be tempted to cut off the roots growing outside the pot, as they are aerial roots which absorb moisture from the air, keeping the plant healthy.

If you are growing a cymbidium orchid indoors, be warned that it does not like being re-potted and may not flower for several years afterwards.

These orchids, which come in a wide colour range with spikes bearing up to 20 long-lasting flowers, normally flower from early winter to late spring.

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