WINE

Accrington Observer - - LEISURE - ANDY CRONSHAW

‘If you’re look­ing for a treat to match goose on Christ­mas Day this is a truly great match’

WHEN I was in Al­sace over the sum­mer one of the rev­e­la­tory ex­pe­ri­ences I had (there were many) was tast­ing the Pinot Gris.

Known in Italy as Pinot Gri­gio, the Pinot Gris in Al­sace was almost uni­formly aro­matic with a sweet­ish palate sug­gest­ing weight­ier resid­ual su­gar than many a typ­i­cally ‘dry’ white wine.

It’s almost as if the Pinot Gri­gio known to su­per­mar­ket shop­pers is a com­pletely dif­fer­ent grape than the Pinot Gris of Al­sace.

And it may be that they are dif­fer­ent clones of the same grape or sim­ply that in Al­sace it’s gen­er­ally left on the vine for longer.

How­ever, as I have men­tioned be­fore Pinot Gri­gio from Trentino or Alto Aldige is an en­tirely dif­fer­ent beast from the wine pro­duced in Veneto, where it tends to be in­sipidly dry.

It also tends to be more ex­pen­sive but my pick this week from co-oper­a­tive Bot­tega Vi­nal is priced around a £10 – more than rea­son­able con­sid­er­ing the qual­ity. An­other grape for which it is easy to make as­sump­tions is Tan­nat. As­trin­gent and with tan­nins as tough as old boots in Madi­ran from the south west of France, tan­nat is grace­ful and light­footed in a bot­tle from Uruguay.

Don’t for­get this week that there may still be time to buy tick­ets for the Hang­ing Ditch Wine Fair at Manch­ester Cathe­dral.

The two-day ex­trav­a­ganza will fea­ture guests the Wine Gang who will be on hand for mas­ter classes and wine walks.

See the web­site for more de­tails.

Cavit Bot­tega Vi­nal Pinot Gri­gio 2016 (about £10 amp­swine­mer­chants.co.uk, tan­nico.co.uk cheer­swine­mer­chants.co.uk and other in­de­pen­dents)

The grapes for this wine came from two places: Ro­vere della Luna in North­ern Trentino with an Alpine cli­mate and Valle dei Laghi which is a lit­tle more Mediter­ranean.

The re­sult is a lus­cious ripe wine with aro­mas of el­der­flower, man­darin and floral notes.

The palate is waxy with hon­eyed peachy fruit and good acid­ity.

A bril­liant match for Asian dishes.

Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes Do­maine Zind Hum­brecht 2013 (£18 The Wine So­ci­ety)

If you’re look­ing for a treat to match goose on Christ­mas Day this is a truly great match.

Made by one of Al­sace’s great­est pro­duc­ers this is su­perb Pinot Gris that is both op­u­lent and min­eral

with zingy acid­ity.

Pisano Pro­greso Tan­nat 2015 (£7.95 The Wine So­ci­ety)

If you’re used to the grippy tan­nins and sturdy struc­ture of Madi­ran, this Tan­nat, from Uruguay will be a big sur­prise. It’s as fresh as a Beau­jo­lais with suc­cu­lent and well­bal­anced bram­bly fruit. It was per­fect with our grilled mut­ton chops.

Cavit Bot­tega Vi­nal Pinot Gri­gio 2016

Pinot Gris Zind Hum­brecht 2013

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