DRIVES OF YOUR LIFE IN THE DORDOGNE
JONATHAN LOW TEES OFF ON A GOLF BREAK IN FRANCE’S PICTURE POSTCARD DORDOGNE VALLEY
I’M GAZING across the vast, open stretches of the lush green forests in the Dordogne Valley, and thinking it doesn’t get much better when it comes to breathtaking panoramic views, not only in France but across the world.
The greenery stretches for miles and miles into the distance, weaving its way through the hilly landscape mixed with valleys, caves, cliffs, architectural masterpieces, quaint little villages and towns, lakes and rivers.
I am in Rocamadour in south-west France, a small village which spectacularly clings to the side of a cliff overlooking part of the Valley.
The village was, and still is, an important pilgrimage centre which attracts more than half a million visitors each year.
The site is famous for its ‘Grand Escalier’ – the 216 steps or ‘large staircase’ which pilgrims are said to have climbed on their knees to see the Black Virgin statue, worshipped for over a millennium.
Visiting Rocamadour is not just about embracing its religious culture and connotations, however. It is one of 143 villages across the Dordogne Valley which each have their own unique charm.
My stay only lasted a couple of days (and certainly did not include all 143 villages!) but it was still enough time to make the most of the wide range of activities on offer.
It’s not difficult to see why this is one of the most beautiful parts of France. The Dordogne Valley can officially boast five of ‘the most beautiful villages’ in France, high-class gastronomic cuisine with four Michelin-starred restaurants, and a landscape so diverse you can enjoy a huge range of activities and sports in the outdoors.
What struck me most about the region – as well as its picturesque scenes and tranquillity – is the copious amounts of space everywhere. The land is unspoiled and respected.
Whether you’re playing on one of the stunning golf courses carved into
the landscape or dining in a historic chateau, the region gives you a chance to step back, take a breather and enjoy a tranquil way of life.
The courses may be a tough ask for an occasional player like myself, but the views you get across them help you keep a level head – even when you’re about to launch your club into the lake after a miss-hit putt!
The two courses I played in Souillac and Aubazine were challenging but rewarding, and scenically beautiful in their layout within oak forests.
Each hole has its own characteristics and obstacles, while taking no prisoners with some tight corners and fairways (I would advise you to take plenty of balls).
A paradise for some golfers and hell for others no doubt, but an enjoyable and memorable experience all the same, and the incredible views are a real treat.
For some culture, a town like Collonges-la-Rouge – famous for its historic red sandstone buildings which give the town its name – allows you to step back in time and discover old arts and crafts.
To go much further back in time (up to 20,000 years ago to be precise) the world renowned prehistoric Lascaux caves lie hidden away near the village of Montignac.
While the original caves and paintings are not open to the public, having been closed in 1963 due to carbon dioxide from visitors’ breathing damaging the paintings, contemporary visitors can still immerse themselves in the he site’s history with a tour through part of the area and a smaller reconstruction of the artwork.
The caves are famous for the precise paintings sketched onto the walls.
Very little is known about who did them or why they were done – it’s likely there was a religious aspect to it – and while other caves around the world can boast similar images, the artwork here on this scale cannot be matched.
Scenes of animals are beautifully portrayed with a real sense of movement and as you wander through the replica caves it’s as if you have been transported on a journey with them to an unknown destination, lost in the midst of time.
It is unimaginable nowadays to fathom how the scenes were so beautifully co-ordinated but perhaps this limited understanding of what they all signify actually adds to their fascination.
The whole cave complex sums up the region in the sense that it leaves you wanting to come back for more.
Whether it’s to visit another chateau, sample some foie gras (a speciality of the region), try your hand at kayaking down the Dordogne or merely to get swept up in a traditional little village market, there is such a rich variety of activities.
You’ll need a car to get around as public transport across the Dordogne is limited due to its landscape, so prepare for some bumpy rides over narrow, winding roads, but those fabulous views make up for any discomfort you may encounter.
“You’ll need a car to get around as public transport across the Dordogne is limited due to its landscape”