A TOUCH OF GLASS
CLAIRE HEWITT DRINKS IN ALL THE SIGHTS, SOUNDS, TASTES AND SMELLS OF VANCOUVER
in sunlight, its mirrored skyscrapers sparkling like diamonds against a backdrop of mountains, it’s no wonder Downtown Vancouver is known as The City of Glass.
And there is no better place to take in that panorama in all its splendour than from Queen Elizabeth Park, which sits on Little Mountain, the highest point in the city’s West Side.
Created from a disused rock quarry, and spanning 130 acres, it has so much more to offer than views of the city. It’s worth taking a few hours to wander around its formal gardens, featuring specimen trees and plants from around the world.
When I visited in spring, the blossom trees in the arboretum were in full bloom, providing a pink paradise to explore. And if that was anything to go by I suspect the rose garden in full summer bloom is something to behold.
The park’s Bloedel Conservatory, a temperature-controlled dome housing tropical and subtropical rainforest plants such as orchids and banyan trees, is a must, as much for the exotic birds that live there, including macaws and cockatoos. They all have names, and be careful what you say to them – they talk back.
My favourites were the Chinese pheasants, wandering around in the undergrowth with their yellow necks and multicoloured plumage.
With a setting that good, the Seasons In The Park restaurant was bound to be a highlight, and the food lived up to the views. The signature salad, grilled chicken, quinoa, fennel and artichoke hearts proved to be the perfect fuel to set me up for more sightseeing.
Vancouver is an easy city to explore. The whole Downtown area is accessible by foot and the reliable bus and train system connects you to points further afield.
The oldest part of the city is Gastown, thought to have grown up around a tavern founded by ‘Gassy Jack’ Deighton in 1867. He liked to talk a lot, apparently, hence the Gassy nickname.
The area still retains its historic charm and the cobbled Water Street, with its red brick buildings is the ideal place to start exploring.
I headed straight for the famous Gastown steam clock and witnessed its full steamy glory. The clock (actually electric) is fed by a network of underground steam pipes, and on the hour it bellows a blast of steam followed by whistling chimes at a quarter past.
While names such as Gaoler’s Mews and Blood Alley hint at the area’s less than salubrious past, today those streets, lined with ornate street lamps, are now home to trendy shops, restaurants and galleries.
A great spot for souvenir shopping is the Coastal Peoples Fine Arts Gallery, which specialises in work by the native Canadian First Nations, Plains and Inuit peoples.
There are ceremonial masks and paintings as well as pottery and sculptures by local artists, which you can buy or just appreciate.
When you are all shopped out, head to Chambar, a former warehouse converted into a buzzing, welcoming light-bedecked restaurant, for a restorative cocktail. I went for a Komorebi – Tanqueray No 10 gin with yuzu and mint corSHIMMERING dial, sparkling wine and cucumber – which the bar describes as being “refreshing, like sunlight through the trees”.
It sharpened my appetite for dinner. The food is Belgian-influenced, and I chose Le Morue Charbonniere, a piece of roasted sablefish with salt cod puree, rainbow chard and hazelnut tapenade. It was as Instagram-worthy as the venue.
My base for this trip to Vancouver was the JW Marriott Parq hotel, one of those shimmering glass buildings, situated in Yaletown, another of the city’s older areas. There were three things I loved about my room – its amazing power shower, the excellent coffee machine, and the chaise longue looking out over False Creek.
I could relax there with a cup of coffee, watching all the fit and healthy Vancouverites running, cycling and dog-walking round the seawall that encircles the creek.
Feeling a little guilt-tripped into taking some exercise, I took a wander along the seawall myself, checking out the superyachts and sailboats bobbing about on the water while kayakers paddled past.
From here I hopped on to one of the ferries that run passengers up and down the creek to Granville Island. This compact little island is packed with restaurants, galleries, artisan shops and, at its heart, the public market.
There are stalls selling locally grown fruits and vegetables, wine from the Okanagan Valley vineyards and delis where I picked up some of the ubiquitous maple syrup.
My eye was caught at Oyama Sausage Co by some very green looking sausages. Chorizo Verde it turned out, flavoured with Serrano pepper and tomatillo giving it its unusual colour.
I was assured by the stall holder that it tasted amazing and I could
sample it for myself at the Mexican restaurant across the road, which they supply. I couldn’t pass up a recommendation like that… and I wasn’t disappointed.
Alimentaria Mexicana’s Chorizo Verde Tostada showcased the sausage perfectly, sitting on a crisp corn tortilla topped with refried beans, charred cabbage and feta.
Aiming to walk off some of the calories, I headed to Stanley Park, the 1,000 acre peninsula park at the tip of Downtown, where you can spot stunning totem poles.
A seawall path runs around the edge of the park and I started near the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club. I retreated from the threatened rain into the shelter of the old-growth forest. From there, I ambled along paths around Beaver Lake out to Prospect Point before making my way back along the seawall on the opposite side of the park.
But you can swap nature for culture with a visit to the Vancouver Art Gallery. Once the city’s courthouse, its grand pillared exterior reminded me of London’s National Gallery.
Here the old masters give way to exhibitions on the influence of AI in our world with an interactive artwork that could tell whether I looked happy, sad or angry by how I contorted my facial features.
After experiencing the fabulous views, culture and natural wonders of this vibrant city, I don’t think the artwork had too much trouble ruling out sad and angry.