There’s no place like home – tips for people photos
Lorraine Milligan shares her top tips on home portraiture and how to make your subjects feel at ease
For 16 years as a high-fashion hair and make-up artist, I worked closely with the top talent in the photography world. I spent my days watching how photographers navigated their subjects and the importance of my role in the artistic process. Many projects then were still being shot on film and I loved the raw images that had that cinematic feel. Yet I also appreciated the ‘colour pop’ of digital and the possibilities felt endless.
Over time I decided to shoot ‘my art’ in photos. I began oering clients the option of image and personal branding sessions and home portraiture, hair and make-up, styling, art direction and finished digital images. I create the entire package, something so important to me when working up close and personal with my subjects.
For me, it’s not about the camera settings, it’s the aesthetics you create and capture and the relationship between you and your subject. Here’s the proof that there’s little need for a full-blown studio set-up. All you really need is your model, a small space, a camera, ambient light and a creative eye.
1 Home location
Your subject should feel comfortable and relaxed. With this in mind it makes sense to capture them in a familiar setting. This could be at home or where they work and ideally somewhere peaceful, so they enjoy the whole experience. The surroundings dictate the mood, so if your subject feels settled, you’ll get the best out of them. The space does not need to be big or fancy, a clever crop can be used in the smallest of areas.
2 Know your model
Every individual is unique. Your model should not adapt to your style, you should adapt to theirs. Before you start, get to know your subject’s character. Establish what the images will be used for, and who their audience is. Research is paramount to capturing your subject’s true essence. Understand your purpose as their photographer and you’ll be able to present them with pictures they are guaranteed to love.
3 Photography etiquette
Most people feel uncomfortable in front of a camera. They may lack confidence or feel nervous, so it’s our job to reassure them and make them feel confident and
capture them at their best. Before the shoot, I profile all my clients. I create a story or mood board and share my ideas to make sure we are both on the same page. Pinterest is a good digital tool for this, it is full of inspiring images, but don’t imitate, be original.
Always look at the shot as a whole before you start shooting. Check clothing is sitting correctly and help your subject by politely suggesting how they should hold themselves and explain what works. It often helps to demonstrate first.
4 Wardrobe styling choices
What your subject chooses to wear is part of their identity and helps to create unique portraits. It’s important that together you look at their wardrobe options and pick an outfit that looks sharp and is in keeping with the theme. For head and shoulder portraits, the top half is all that matters. Look at necklines, collars, and keep accessories simple and to a minimum. Patterns can work well on a blank background for more lighthearted shots and with younger subjects. Avoid large logos or branding and ensure garments are creasefree. When working with black, white or dark blocks of colour, keep the styling tailored and simple. Don’t overexpose your subject; you should always be able to see the edge of their clothing in contrast against their skin and background.
5 Basic grooming
I style all my clients’ hair and makeup, but if this is not your skillset, here are the basics. A shiny forehead is a photographer’s nemesis. A ‘blot powder’ applied with a makeup brush or sponge to the Tzone (forehead, nose and chin) or use translucent face powder to remove any hot spots. If your subject can apply their own makeup, advise that they keep it natural, enhancing their best features. Faces should match the body in colour tone. If someone’s character is reflected in his or her ‘statement’ makeup, make sure the style you shoot him or her in is equally as fun and quirky. Men too should indulge in some anti shine makeup, a transparent matte gel or antishine (blot) powder can transform a shiny face or head. Makeup creates illusion. Hair should be groomed and long hair allowed to fall naturally. Watch out for stray hairs making their way onto the face.
6 Composition
Finding an aesthetically pleasing space to shoot in can be challenging. I have photographed people on their upstairs landing, behind kitchen doors, by their wardrobes, sitting on the back of their sofas, you name it. If you have a creative eye for composition, you can make any area look interesting. It’s all about the composition and crop. A wall is effective at creating some depth and perspective and a chair or stool gives your subject a prop to work with.
7 Styling the background
Ensure the backdrop is aesthetically pleasing and in keeping with the theme but avoid clutter and fuss. Simple furniture and interesting ornaments can add some texture and dimension to a shot, especially when using depth of field. I love using textured walls, particularly wood grain. Even a wall with a rough plastered effect will add character and atmosphere to your backdrop. Shoot in front of a window if you want to create a silhouette or shaded effect. Soft drapes add a frame and will obscure ugly uPVC frames.
8 Use of natural light
For 15 years I worked closely with the late, great iconic photographer, Michael Putland, as his preferred hair and makeup artist. We had an intuitive creative relationship. It was because of Michael’s use of ambient light and our personal projects shooting on film, that I love the gift of natural light. The way light falls on your subject at different times of the day and how it reflects off surfaces can create a soft box effect. For headshots, I shoot my subject against a plain wall with a window (not in direct sunlight) behind me with ambient light from either side. To create contrast and strong shadows, I place my subject near a window, casting light and shade on the face. Sunny, dry days with light cloud are ideal.
‘Capturing laughter is a good way to start and people tend to feel relaxed’
If artificial light is your only source of light, adding a little flare will lift your subject. For this I use my attachable flash pack, which I set quite low and direct on a 45- degree angle. Pointing towards my model and up at the ceiling, the light will bounce back onto my subject for a subtle and soft lighting effect.
10 Anatomy dos and don’ts
My background is dance and fashion, so that’s always at the back of my mind when studying my subject’s stance. I like to include hands; they are a signature style of my portraiture as they express so much emotion. It is important that your subject is relaxed and comfortable. Limbs can easily look awkward, ‘ham arms’ (elbow towards the camera) or arm muscle pressed against the body are very unflattering.
When it comes to hands, there is a fine line between a ‘bunch of bananas’ and a beautifully relaxed, elegant hand. Encourage your subject to angle and hold their limbs with some tension, so muscle tone looks defined and limbs lengthened. If in doubt, cover the limbs with sleeves. The legs work on the same principles.
11 Expressions
Portraiture is great for showing off your subject’s personality. An expression will tell a story so this needs to be desirable and natural. If my subject is having direct eye contact with the camera, it needs to be engaging, seductive or confident. Or get them to look wistfully away, as if you’re looking in on a quiet, contemplative moment. Capturing laughter is also a good way to start and people tend to feel relaxed not having to engage directly with the camera. An extrovert is easy to photograph and I enjoy creating fun montages showing my subject’s personality. Try and capture a variety of expressions and don’t be afraid to make your subject laugh – capturing humour is golden.
12 Bear mono in mind
Black & white images are atmospheric, timeless and forgiving. I always shoot in colour but with an eye for monochrome. I create contrast in the make-up application, exaggerating cheekbones and contouring the facial bone structure with light and shadow. I look at the light being cast onto my subject and imagine how it will look in black & white and how the shadows may create depth and highlights. I have three simple material backdrops; white, grey antique effect and black. Hanging the black backdrop behind my model creates the depth of darkness that then makes the model ‘pop’ in their surroundings, with natural light defining their features. If you tweak the contrast in edit, you can create extra drama in the image when converted to black & white.
13 Seize the moment
Your subject is unique with their own personality. Taking their photograph is such a privilege, an intimate insight into their world. Some of the very best shots are action pictures; documentary style images of people moving freely, naturally and just being themselves. Movement can create some beautiful body shapes and when you see the shot happening, seize the moment. Photography is an expression of art. You may find your creative style, but always remember the images are a reflection of your subject.