Dave Harrell takes us through his float tactics for fast-flowing stretches
Floats to catch big bags of chub from shallow, fast-flowing water
THIS week we’re looking at what I consider to be the most exciting form of river waggler fishing.
It involves fast-flowing water and big fish in the form of chub and barbel, and if you’ve never tried it I’d urge you to give it a go before the river season ends on March 14.
This is a style of fishing that requires strong gear, as it’s not uncommon to hook some really big fish along the way.
I’ve had barbel over 12lb and chub to 8lb fishing this way, and fish of this size will show no respect for gossamer-thin lines and fine wire hooks!
RODS AND REELS
The best rods I’ve ever used for this type of waggler fishing are Daiwa Tournament RS in 13ft and 14ft lengths. They’re really strong, but they also bend when you need them to.
Far too many so-called ‘power’ rods are just too stiff for this sort of fishing, and you end up just pulling the hook out or, worse still, breaking off when the fish runs.
I match these rods to Daiwa TDR3012 reels. These have just the right amount of speed for retrieve, and a brilliant drag system for playing strong fighting fish such as barbel.
REEL LINES
Floating lines are a must for floatfishing in fast water. I use Pro Float in 6lb (0.20mm), 7lb (0.22mm) and 8lb (0.24mm). These come on 300m spools, and I fill the reel spools to the top in one continuous length.
After a couple of months’ use, I simply reverse the whole lot on to another reel spool so that the
line from the bottom is now on top and effectively ‘new’ – a useful cost saving over the course of a river season.
HOOKS AND HOOKLENGTHS
Strong hooklength lines are the order of the day for fast-water waggler fishing, for the same reason strong mainlines are a must.
I use Pro Rig in 0.16mm (6.4lb), 0.18mm (7lb) and 0.20mm (8.4lb). If the fish are really having it, I will tie a hook direct to the mainline.
Always be mindful of snags though, as you will risk losing a load of line and your rig if you do this and your line breaks several metres above the float when you snag up and pull for a break.
Hooks need to be strong. I am currently using a new prototype spade end pattern in sizes from 16 to 10.
SHOTTING
If you’ve been following this series so far, you may have noticed that I use a shot down the line for every 2ft of depth. The same rule applies for thick wagglers, which again have most of the shot locking the float on to the line.
Down the line I use a No4 shot for every 2ft of depth, equally spread, with the bottom one positioned just above the 30cm hooklength.
CASTING
It’s important to always cast your rig downstream before you run it through your swim. You need plenty of room on fast-flowing water, and a swim of 40m to 50m is the ideal distance.
Cast down and further out than the line of the river you can get your feed to, then draw it back on to the feed line.
The main challenge then is to get the hookbait in with the feed.
DEPTH SETTINGS
In fast water I use thick-topped floats with plenty of buoyancy. This means I can drag a lot of line along the bottom if I want to.
Work to blocks of time between five and 10 minutes and then change something if you’re not catching. This could mean more or less depth, more float above the surface for more buoyancy, or less for a little more sensitivity.
There are so many things you can do with your rig to work it in tandem with the feed.
FEEDING
We’re targeting big fish with big appetites, so it’s no good turning up with a pint of maggots for a five or six-hour session. I’d take at least four or five pints with me and would expect to use most of them if fish are responding well.
Split your feed into pint measures if you have problems gauging the amount you are using.
Another good tip is to feed before you cast in, and try to time the cast so that your hookbait is in with the feed. You’ll catch far more fish this way than casting and then feeding.