CARP TACTICS
There is one rig to rule them all for Scott Lloyd – the ‘Noodle’. This week he tells us why it is so effective...
Scott Lloyd’s top rig tips
MY NUMBER one presentation for fishing over clear areas of gravel or firm clay is my ever-faithful Noodle rig.
I’ve caught all my biggest carp on this rig, including the mighty Burghfield Common. It’s a devastating hooker that fish find hard to eject. Here are some key elements to getting it right...
1 Balanced hookbait
Balanced baits allow the rig to flutter down slowly and help to push the hooklink out straight. If you were to use a heavy bait, the chances of a tangle would be far greater. If you imagine how slowly a pop-up sinks under the weight of a rig, this is how I like to see the rig perform when I cast it on to the spot. Another key point is its resetting properties. If the rig does get picked up by a bird, or a fish wafts it while feeding on the spot, the rig will still be sitting ideally for another opportunity.
2 Rig ring
When fish pick the bait up, they’ll try to use the weight of the hookbait to rid themselves of the hook. You’ll see them sucking and blowing to eject the hook from the bottom lip.
The ring slides up the shank of the hook towards the eye when the carp picks it up, transferring the weight of the bait on to the point with ease, creating a more efficient hooking potential.
Compare this to fixing the hair with something like tubing and you’ll see that the bait does the complete opposite and actually helps shift weight away from the hookpoint.
3 Big hooks
If we think a carp can tell the difference between a size 4 and a size 6 hook, we’re doomed! A nice, big, sturdy and sharp hook like the TA Curve Point is perfect.
4 Length of shrink tube
The main purpose of this is to extend the shank of the hook and create a more aggressive presentation. When you hold the hook horizontally, it’s important that the tip of the shrink tube is lower than the hookpoint.
If you imagine when the rig is in the carp’s mouth, the
shrink tube is pulled down by the weight of the piece of putty underneath it. This forces the hookpoint downwards and the length causes the hook to penetrate the soft palate behind the fish’s jawbone. Precisely where you want to hook them!
5 Braided section & putty
That little section with the coating removed creates a 360-degree hooking opportunity as no matter from what direction the carp approaches the hookbait, the hook can spin and grab hold. The putty is then acting as the anchor point to hold that down and help flip the rig once it’s picked up.
6 Tungsten dropper
This little beauty ensures the rig is laid down perfectly and also balances the rig out when it kicks away. I’ve witnessed fish spook off rigs which aren’t sitting flush to the lakebed. It’s got to be pinned down to the deck, or you’re massively lessening your chances.
7 Anti-tangle sleeve
This kicks the hooklink away nice and straight from the lead system. The reasoning behind the putty on the sleeve is to keep that down too.
Believe it or not, anti-tangle sleeves, unless they’re made of tungsten, contain air. Air trapped inside the sleeve is enough to raise it.
8 Camstiff hooklink
This material is perfect for the job. If you use an uncoated, supple braid, the hooklink won’t be able to reset itself if disturbed and it is much more likely to tangle. On the other hand, coated braids which are too stiff can kick up and sit at an unnatural angle if there’s any debris on the lakebed.
The completed rig is tied to the swivel with a grinner knot. If I feel like there might be a bit of debris over the spot I’m fishing, I’ll lengthen the rig – 8ins is usually the longest I’ll go. For clean spots I tend to use hooklinks of 5ins-6ins.