A hidden gem around Stonefield and its island neighbour
Stonefield Castle’s gardens and Barmore Island should be enjoyed at a leisurely pace
Heather Thomas-Smith runs Heathery Heights, an outdoor adventure and discovery company based in Lochgilphead, offering guided walking adventures, outdoor activities, training, and experiences. All her walks can be booked as bespoke guided experiences. www.heatheryheights.co.uk
Taking full advantage of the west coast’s Gulf Stream climate, the wonderful gardens of Stonefield Castle Hotel have a wide variety of specimens including exotic pines, redwoods, rhododendron, azalea and ferns, many from South America, Asia and New Zealand with particular attention given to several Himalayan species.
The baronial-style castle itself – a hotel since the 1950s – was once home to the Campbell family and was built for John Campbell in the late 1830s.
It replaced Barmore House, which was burnt down in the late 18th century. William Henry Playfair designed the house and much of the layout including the viaduct and stables; it is thought he may also have played a part in the design of the gardens.
Nevertheless, it was John Campbell’s interest in botany that led to the array of specimens seen today, some started from seed collected on an expedition between 1849 and 1850 by his cousin Dr Archibald Campbell and the botanist Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker.
The gardens, tied in with a visit over the causeway to Barmore Island, make for a lovely walk and can be tempered to suit all abilities.
Barmore Island, however, is not quite an island; it is connected to the mainland by a causeway separating North and South Bays.
The latter is shallow and sandy with a fine stone fish trap whilst the north is rocky and deeper with jetties, a harbour and small quay.
As a child I often came here with family and friends to do beach cleans and collect cockles in spring.
Sometimes we were treated to fabulous sightings of the northern lights.
Meanwhile far above, monkey puzzle trees loomed out of what was a Forestry Commission plantation between the 1960s and 80s; these were often our goal on treasure hunts set up by my father.
Parking is available in a layby on the east side of the A83 just south of Stonefield’s South Lodge. It is a 100m walk north before the turn right into the grounds by South Lodge.
Follow the single-track road for 1.3km. Although no longer used to access the hotel - the viaduct is no longer deemed safe for traffic - the road is still used for a couple of houses and Shore Cottage.
It meanders past fields and woods, including an impressive stand of monkey puzzle trees, before reaching a crossroads amid mature specimens of trees.
Go straight ahead and cross the finely constructed viaduct – far below lies the Barmore Burn which can be quite a sight after heavy rain. Luxuriant rhododendron and tall trees loom from below.
Continue until you meet the tarmacked road leading to the hotel and turn right.
After 60m turn right again down a path before reaching the hotel ahead – unless a coffee is required.
Just ahead keep left at a Y junction, towards the jetties and harbour.
After 60m you will reach a wider path.
Here you can go straight over onto a small path which leads you to one of the jetties and a bench with views up Loch Fyne. Return to the main path and turn left.
Continue down the path for a further 80m.
Here you can turn left to view the old boathouse, quay, harbour and jetty. Return to the main path and continue (left) down to a crossroads and Barmore Bridge.
Turn left. The track now leads you to the causeway to Barmore Island. Cross this and you will see a track coming in from the left, a small path leading right and a track ahead. The right and left routes circumnavigate the island, 1.5km in all.
Assuming an anticlockwise direction choose the righthand path leading down the east shore of south bay.
If the tide is low, the fish trap across the bay can be clearly seen.
En route, wonderful rocks loom out of the trees and
bracken, one akin to the giant head of a Tyrannosaurus rex.
Continue past the ruins of an old croft on your left until the path reaches the beach.
You now have a choice depending on the tides.
At low tide you can just wander across the stony beach ahead to where the path continues from the other side, taking care on the more slippery stones.
At high tide, or to avoid the beach, a small path can be picked out to the left, which meanders through the rocks directly above the beach.
From here you then ascend the path that takes you over to the north side of the island which will then return west to the causeway.
Stony beaches can be explored on the way and a bench or two offer respite. To the north-west lies the watery grave of the Margaret Niven, a Clyde puffer wrecked on a rocky pinnacle off Sgeir Mhaolo Cinn in 1908.
At the causeway re-cross before either returning to Stonefield Castle Hotel via the footpaths for refreshments prior to returning to South Lodge or veer left up the hill (ignoring the track on your left to Shore Cottage on the west side of South Bay) to the crossroads and turn left to return along the old road to South Lodge.
If you have time, further intermediary tracks can be explored within the grounds leading past the old tennis courts, under the viaduct and to the old walled garden, although very little is left of the former.