In the footsteps of monks
The village of hinton Charterhouse takes its name from an ancient priory established in the area back in 1232 by the Carthusian order of monks. This was only their second base in Britain and, as was the norm, the name of Charterhouse was given to each of their monastic settlements. The remains of the priory consist of a chapter house and refectory, as well as the outlines of the cloisters, although you will have to take my word for this as the remains lie off of the walk and with the complex being very much a private property.
St John the Baptist Church is another of the ancient religious establishments in the village, with origins that predate even those of the priory. A Norman church, the fine doorway and font, as well as the lower part of the tower, date from this era. The local guidebooks point out a wooden seat in the churchyard, replete with a plaque bearing the legend: ‘This seat contains teak from h.m.ship ‘Valiant’ Jutland 1916. Cape Matapan 1941.’ As is the case in so many english villages, the grand house, in this case hinton house, borders on to the church grounds, thus ensuring the Lord and his
Lady had easy access to their dedicated pew each Sabbath!
A series of quiet country lanes, broken only by an unavoidable and intrusive crossing of the main A36, brings the walk to Iford. here the local manor fronts on to the Somerset Frome, crossed at this point by a charming stone bridge topped out with a statue of Britannia. The house is medieval in origin, the classical facade having been added in the 18th century, but it is the Peto Garden that most visitors enthuse over. Modelled on old Italian gardens, features include the Loggia, the Great Terrace, the Casita and the Cloisters. harold Peto, incidentally, was an architect and landscape gardener who made Iford Manor his home between 1899 and 1933.
From Iford, a fieldpath runs through the Frome Valley to the isolated hamlet of Friary. With a name like that, there has to be a connection with monks and monasteries. Located in a cleft in the valley, Friary was the living quarters for the lay brothers from that nearby hinton Priory. As was the custom, the monks themselves lived in residence in the main block up on the hilltop, within easy reach of the cloisters and their place of worship, while their more humble colleagues lived in quiet rural seclusion in the damp and dank surrounds of the wooded Frome Valley.
A not inconsiderable climb through Friary Woods brings the walk back to the A36 and, having negotiated this somewhat busy trunk road, thankfully a much quieter lane brings the walk back to hinton Charterhouse. Normally thoughts would turn to rest and refreshment, which will return to outdoor spaces come April 12 and indoors from May 17, if Covid numbers do not escalate. The village has two pubs, the Stag Inn and the Rose & Crown. You could get a proverbial cigarette paper between the two in terms of reviews, with both pubs being dog-friendly as well as offering excellent food and a decent selection of drinks.
GETTING There
■ Follow the B3110 into Hinton Charterhouse. At the southern end of the village, alongside the Rose & Crown
pub, turn left into Green Lane. In 600 yards, park on the roadside just before a turning on the left that leads up to the church.
■ 1. Continue following the road out of Hinton Charterhouse. In ¼ mile, ignore the right turn to Trowbridge and keep ahead for 200 yards to a property on the right called Stroud Farm. Immediately past this property, turn right and follow a lane for 350 yards down to the A36. Cross with care and follow the lane opposite for just under one mile down into Iford.
■ 2. As you enter the village, pass through a gateway on the left and enter a field – but do detour ahead to explore the village. Walk the whole length of this field, the Somerset Frome away to the right, keeping to the left edge of the
field. In ½ mile, veer left up to a gate and stile, and enter some woodland. Follow the woodland path ahead for 200 yards to a gate, cross a paddock and drop down to a lane in Friary.
■ 3. Follow this lane, Friary Wood Lane, to the left uphill through Friary Wood to reach the A36 in just under ½ mile. Cross over and follow the lane opposite (with 7.5 ton weight limit) for just under ¾ mile back to the roadside parking by Hinton Charterhouse Church.
NOTE: Please maintain social distancing while walking for exercise and only follow this walk if it is local to you during lockdown