Skis the day
Stephanie Balloo explores the breathtaking beauty within the alberta province of western canada through skiing, ice climbing, snowshoeing, tubing and much more
“EVERY day, there’s always a chance a bear can come out” isn’t exactly a reassuring start to a conversation about camping in the Canadian Rockies.
Bears can be seen from March, but our driver explains it’s the cougars you want to be wary of as we head out into David Thompson County, where it’s legal to set up camp anywhere.
“Go with a guide or be prepared,” was his advice to anyone hoping to brave it out in Alberta’s sub-zero temperatures and amongst the wildlife.
Luckily for us, our winter wonderland trip instead sees us stay in a lodge-style inn fronted by hot tubs, a hotel with a rooftop jacuzzi and the luxurious Fairmont Chateau.
And most importantly, we’ve got a van to run back to – driven by an adrenaline-junkie guide who climbs up frozen waterfalls for fun after a day’s work.
A drive along one of the world’s most beautiful roads, the 230km Icefields Parkway, connects our stops in Jasper, Banff and Lake Louise.
It’s a route characterised by pristine lakes, but in the thick of winter, expect scenes of ancient glaciers and thick snow similar to a Christmas card.
Our pre-covid trip at the end of February 2020, mere weeks before the UK lockdown, begins in Jasper; Rockies’ largest national park.
“It’s not a traffic jam, it’s an elk jam, it’s a classic Jasper problem,” our driver jokes as elks on the road ahead forces us to come to a stop near Jasper, a mountain town known for its lakes and 11,000ft high peaks.
Canadians who have also chosen to stay at Mount Robson Inn urge us to lie in the surrounding snow before dipping into the hot tub as it’s tradition – not sure that’s for me.
A short walk down the road, past an array of restaurants, gift shops and beneath a cannabis boutique, you’ll find Jasper Wellness – a place to recharge and ‘nourish your wellbeing’ with mindfulness yoga.
And to keep the mountain town spirit through to dinner, we head to Downstream Restaurant and Lounge where you can grab yourself one of Canada’s famous ‘Caesar’ cocktails.
Ice climbing follows the next day after dressing in our hiking boots, crampons and sunglasses, we’re wowed by the ice falls lining stunning Cline River Canyon.
Scaling up with ice picks in hand and kicking dips in the ice with the crampons, it’s fairly challenging as a novice. But it’s great fun and though I didn’t get very far up, it’s definitely one to tick off the bucket list.
It’s hard to believe ice climbing is a casual activity for some locals – our driver casually reveals: “We go after work it’s like an ice gym, one head torch lights up the whole canyon.”
For the less sporty tourist, you can hunt for the beautiful ‘Ice Bubbles’ – methane gas bubbles beneath a frozen lake.
Our desperate attempts to brush the snow off patches of the Vermillion Lake with a broom in heavy snowfall sadly failed to lead to clear sightings. But I’m told you can hold flexible booking dates on the tour to boost your chances of seeing them.
Adverse weather almost scuppers our journey too, but we stick to the tracks along Icefields Parkway to travel into Banff, a UNESCO world heritage site and Canada’s first national park (as of 1885).
If you’re looking for entertainthe ment, the town’s strip of bars and restaurants truly come alive at night – we have complimentary ear plugs from Mount Royal Hotel where we stay, as a warning.
Country music is popular in this part of Canada and there was live music belting out from one of the local bars with a singer in a cowboy-style hat, performing some classic tunes and encouraging everyone up on the dance floor.
Scenic Banff is bustling with tourists through summer, so winter is said to be a better time to visit.
Alongside shops ranging from a fudge store you can smell as you walk past – and a dedicated Christmas shop – you’ll find Skibig3 Adventure, a place to rent all your Ski gear.
Head 60km out to Lake Louise Ski
Resort for the day, where, whether you’re a beginner, intermediate or a professional, there’s 4,200 skiable acres to play with.
As a complete beginner who had never picked up a pair of skis, I was astonished to be making my way down the slopes after just a couple of hours – a testament to the instructors perhaps.
Après Ski Aperol Spritz and cocktails slide down nicely at the resort and we head back to simmer down in the hotel’s rooftop hot tub overlooking
Mount Norquay. After appreciating the views, be sure to try out the mountain’s tubing experience – Western Canada’s longest, fastest tubing lanes where you whizz down the slopes in a rubber donut.
And not to be missed when visiting Banff is the impressive Sky Bistro, perched on the summit of the 8,000ft Sulphur mountain with panoramic views of the snowy peaks.
You’ll travel up in a gondola to the restaurant, which feels like part of the dining experience in itself as you soak in the epic scenery from the air.
Inside, you’ll feast on distinctly Canadian cuisine, from locallysourced bison tenderloin tartare to fresh atlantic cod fillet.
If luxury is your thing, continue onto Fairmont Chateau at Lake Louise, if only for the night to experience the fine dining, unrivalled room views and spa. We spent our evening dining there from a menu which included elk carpaccio and sous vide foie gras before a morning of snowshoeing on top of 9ft deep snow.
After hiking up and down the grounds of Lake Louise, we warm our stomachs with mulled wine at the swanky ice bar, surrounded by frozen sculptures.
It’s exactly this blissful concept of hurling yourself into an enthralling winter pursuit in the freezing cold before warming up in a spa that makes Alberta such an idyllic trip.
And not a bear in sight.