Rural idyll on the doorstep
tHe fringes of our towns and cities represent very fragile environments. There is pressure for development at every turn, as well as heavy traffic volumes due to commuter traffic. This week’s walk on the eastern edge of Bath is no exception. Despite the presence of busy roads and railway lines, pylons and a backdrop of traffic noise, this walk from Batheaston is a surprisingly pleasant and rural excursion.
Batheaston is an altogether better place since the opening of its bypass in 1996. New roads are never welcome, as was evident from the mass protests that surrounded this development, but the constant stream of lorries and cars, vans and buses that once ruined the London Road in the village is now but a distant memory.
Whether the bypass needed to be a dual carriageway of such quite vast dimensions is another question!
Having crossed the River Avon quite literally on a railway bridge, fieldpaths bring the walk through to Bathampton and a real hive of activity. On the K&A, one barge is a cycle repair shop, while another is a floating cafe.
There is, of course, the George that fronts onto the canal, as well as St Nicholas’ Church. The church is especially renowned for its “Australian Chapel” that celebrates Admiral Arthur Phillip, the first Governor of New South Wales, who was buried here in 1814.
A delightful stretch of the K&A brings the walk through to the Bathampton Meadows, and what a good job it was that a park-and-ride was not developed here a few years ago. This is a rural idyll, literally on Bath’s doorstep, with the hills of Bath all around – Solsbury Hill, Bathampton Down and Brown’s Folly to name but three. There follows a recently created shared-use path back to Batheaston, with views of the toll bridge and the Avon, as well as the opportunity to cross an architecturally designed bridge that crosses the river.
Turn left on the far side of this bridge and there is a hidden gem in the shape of Batheaston’s Hidden Garden. This was formerly part of the gardens of Batheaston House, laid out with formal walks focused on the shell niche seat which still sits in the garden today.
The oldest tree in the garden is a mulberry, dating from the late 19th century, while in the 1920s the garden was laid out to fruit and vegetables, which is when the apple trees were planted. I must admit to pocketing a few apples that ended up in a tasty Dorset apple cake (check out the recipe on BBC Food).
Talking of tasty food, a seamless link, opposite the car park is Gather – more than just a cafe, this is an eaterie that is earning rave reviews online.
It is difficult to describe the place: a tea shop? Lunch venue? Somewhere to breakfast? It is all of these and more besides. Have a look at the Facebook page and you will no doubt be heading this way, even if not the slightest bit interested in walking. One word of warning: Gather usually closes at 3pm.
Getting there
■ Follow the former A4 into the centre of Batheaston. Park opposite a rank of shops in the London Road car park. This is often busy, but roadside parking is available nearby.
■ 1. Leave the car park and turn right along London Road East. In 600 yards, just before a roundabout and the eastern end of the Batheaston Bypass, turn right down towards the entrance to a series of apartments called Avondale before turning left onto a footpath that passes under the bypass. Emerge onto a main road, turn right and walk under a railway bridge before following a footpath on the right signposted to Bathampton.
■ 2. Cross the Avon, the main railway on your left, before dropping down to a handgate and meadow. Walk diagonally across the middle of this field towards some housing to reach a gate. Keep ahead to another gate, cross a railway line and follow the lane ahead into Bathampton. In 300 yards, turn left to join the K&A Canal and follow the towpath to the right. In ¾ mile, just before bridge 184, veer right on a path that climbs up from the towpath to a quiet lane. Turn right, cross a railway line and follow a footpath signposted to the left along to a gate and field.
■ 3. Turn right and walk down the right edge of a field to a footbridge. Beyond this bridge, turn right and follow a path that passes under the Batheaston Bypass. Beyond the bypass, follow a path that follows the line of electricity wires across a field to a gate and driveway. Follow this driveway to the left along to the Bathampton to Batheaston road. Turn right for a few paces, cross the road and opposite is a recently created path that will return you to Batheaston and the car park.