Go East, young man
Clearing through a few boxes of old papers, i came across a fascinating letter from a critic of one of my published walks. The route in question – near Cranmore in east Somerset – appeared in Country Walking magazine in the late 1980s and, judging from the tone of the letter, the writer had clearly got out of bed on the wrong side that day.
The first complaint was that there was mud in several of the fields along the way, closely followed by criticism of the route for passing through pasture land that was home to somewhat lively cattle.
The writer of this missive then went on to complain that Cranmore Tower – a decidedly private residence – was not open to the public, a fact that had been clearly pointed out in my notes. There then followed a request that future routes would be much better if the landscape resembled that of a suburban park – Tarmac paths and an absence of livestock – before ending with a fierce tirade regarding the dullness of the landscape around Cranmore anyway.
i thought it time to head back to this quiet village – midway between Frome and Shepton Mallet – just to see what all the fuss had been about.
Cranmore is best known for being the home of the east Somerset railway. This former gwr line was purchased by the artist David Shepherd in the early 1970s, with the east Somerset railway officially being launched in 1973. The line extends in a westerly direction to Mendip Vale Station, a mile or two from Shepton Mallet, and provides instant nostalgia to all those grumpy old men of my generation.
away from the railway, quiet lanes and byways, cross a pleasant enough corner of Somerset before reaching the village of east Cranmore. There had been a few changes along the way since my last visit here all those years ago. in order to prove their environmental credentials, the local quarry company at Merehead had constructed a pair of vast lakes while, as a reflection of the secularisation of society, east Cranmore Church was now a domestic conversion.
a gentle climb above east Cranmore brings the walk to Cranmore Wood, in whose depths lies the aforementioned tower. Built by a local landowner in the late 19th century, the adjoining cottage did at one time serve as a tearoom. Today, however, this is a private home and should be treated as such! round about lies ancient deciduous woodland, where the signs demanding that visitors stick to the official byways should be obeyed – they were, after all, posted by the local archery club who practice deep in the tree cover.
Below Cranmore Wood lies a wonderful open hillside, with views that extend deep into Somerset. There are no particular landmarks, just a stretch of rolling countryside that stretches away towards the Dorset border. Then you must brace yourself for what comes at the journey’s end – a muddy field followed by a field full of cattle. it does appear that little has changed over the years. But just remember – this is a working landscape and not a suburban park and long may it stay that way!
Directions
■ Cranmore lies just south of the A361, midway between Frome and Shepton Mallet. Park on the roadside somewhere near the entrance to the East Somerset Railway’s car park.
■ 1. With your back to the railway car park, follow the road to the right out of Cranmore. Having crossed the railway, continue for 200 yards to a junction where the main road bears right. At this point, keep ahead along the lane signposted to Wanstrow. In 1 mile, at the top of the climb, turn left on to a public bridleway – there is an underground reservoir on the right at this point. Follow a section of track to a handgate, before continuing along an enclosed grassy path. In 350 yards, having passed Coldharbour Farm on the left, keep on the track as it bears right and continue for 350 yards to a railway line.
■ 2. Cross the tracks with care, and continue following the track ahead – with lakes on the right – for ½ mile down into East Cranmore. Just before the first property in the village, cross a stile in a wooden fence ahead, walk ahead past the property to another gate and stile, and continue along a lane that soon bears sharply left into the centre of Cranmore. Follow this lane for 300 yards to a junction alongside the entrance to All Hallows School, turn right and walk up to the A361. Follow Slait Hill opposite for 300 yards and, just before a pair of semi-detached cottages at the top of the climb, turn left along an unmetalled road waymarked as a public bridleway.
■ 3. Follow this track uphill for ½ mile to an avenue of trees leading to Battlefields Wood. At the crossroads at the entrance to the woodland, keep ahead along the main bridleway. Follow this main path ahead for 600 yards – it bears left and right at one point – dropping downhill to a junction by a small pond on the right. Take a sharp left turn, and follow a path along the western edge of the woodland for 650 yards to a track that leads to Cranmore Tower on the left. Cross this track, and follow a feint path opposite to an old stile in the southwest corner of the woodland. Walk down the right edge of the field ahead – with a fine view across Somerset ahead – to a handgate on the right.
■ 4. In the neighbouring field, cross to a gate in the far-left corner and join a track. Follow this track downhill into Dean, before turning left at the first junction down to the A361. Follow this road to the right and, 30 yards past the Methodist Church, cross the busy road to a handgate opposite. Head across to the far right corner of the field ahead – walking around the perimeter of the field if crops are growing – to reach a handgate. Head across the next field to a gate opposite and an estate road in Cranmore. Walk down this road to a junction, turn left down to the next junction and then right along to the Strode Arms. Just past the pub, turn left back to the East Somerset Railway.