Musical Destinations
Claire Jackson pays a visit to the Polish capital, where the ghost of one composer in particular looms large, whether at relaxed outdoor concerts or in multimedia installations
Claire Jackson enjoys Chopin galore in Warsaw
When a city names its airport after a composer, you know it is serious about promoting musical history. Warsaw’s Chopin Airport was officially renamed in 2001 and fans can now take a snap with the airport’s namesake via the ‘Selfie with Chopin’ app. Across the city, key sites activate a virtual incarnation of Frédéric Chopin, who sits in the corner of one’s smartphone to enable users to take a portrait with the pianist. It’s an innovative way of attracting new audiences to the myriad Chopin-inspired events that Warsaw boasts.
Events, that is, like the concerts held at the Chopin Statue at ⇤azienki Royal Park. For the past 50 years, recitals have taken place at the foot of the stone sculpture every Sunday from May until late September. I arrive in time to catch the last two recitals of the 2016 season. The leaves are turning gold, and the autumnal sun dimples Frédéric’s face. A technician fiddles with a handsome Kawai grand piano. I observe children picnicking and adults nursing coffee cups.
People arrive throughout the Preludes. There is muted conversation, clapping between movements and people taking photos. Chopin’s music was first performed in salons where audiences were
Chopin clearly plays a central role in Warsaw’s cultural life
unencumbered by 20th- and 21st-century concert hall etiquette, so the park’s audience arguably have a more authentic experience – minus the smartphones, amplification and all.
The last recital is given by one of the finalists of the International Chopin Piano Competition, Warsaw’s famous musical contest. The event, established in 1927, takes place every five years, culminating in a final with the Warsaw Philharmonic. It has launched the careers of some of the world’s most notable artists, such as Martha Argerich, who took first prize in 1965. Seong-jin Cho won the most recent instalment in 2015.
Multimedia Chopin benches, meanwhile, have been installed across Warsaw. I encounter several of these sonorous seats, and each time have to queue for a turn to access the musical titbits. Visitors are curious to learn more about Warsaw’s musical heritage (and children love to push a button). One bench plays Polonaise in A, Op. 40, No 1; another the Waltz in D flat, Op. 64, No 1.
The Ostrogski Palace, meanwhile, is home to the biggest collection of Chopinania in the world. Here you’ll find Chopin’s pianos: the Pleyel grand is cordoned off, but the coffeestained upright used during his most prolific years is free to explore. As well as interactive displays of scores, maps and biographical nuggets, there is a ‘death room’ which features paintings of Chopin before his untimely death aged 39 and a lock of the composer’s hair.
Chopin clearly plays a central role in Warsaw’s cultural life. It is impossible to avoid his influence – and why would you want to? However, do not fear Chopin burnout; there is plenty to sustain diverse musical tastes. La Folle Journée, for instance, is Warsaw’s
annual summer series. The festival, similar in style to the BBC Proms, was founded by René Martin, and is also held in France, Spain, Japan and Brazil – although each series has a local twist. ‘The main idea is to de-secularise classical music and take it to the biggest audience possible,’ says Martin. ‘I named the festival “crazy day”, which suggests something revolutionary. Each concert is 45 minutes long and there is something for everyone.’
I attend the Warsaw premiere of Max Richter’s Vivaldi Recomposed, performed on a Saturday afternoon. The concerts have a family-friendly ‘gig’ atmosphere: vendors sell T-shirts and there’s a graffiti tower for children. ‘There are many educational concerts and ones featuring youth orchestras from across Poland,’ says Martin. ‘We are preparing a public for classical music for tomorrow.’ A tomorrow in which, presumably, Chopin will continue to loom large.