BBC Countryfile Magazine

STEEL RIGG Northumber­land

Where Hadrian’s Wall meets one of the North’s most dramatic natural features

- Words by Jo Tinsley

H adrian’s Wall – built by the Roman Emperor in around AD122 – takes advantage of one of the most distinctiv­e geological features in the country: the Whin Sill. This great sheet of hard volcanic rock stretches from Teesdale to the Farne Islands. The Romans’ use of the escarpment is one of the most impressive ways that man has exploited Earth’s geology to fortify human defences.

1. ONCE BREWED

Park at Steel Rigg (or hop off the bus at The Sill, the visitor centre at Once Brewed, and follow the road north to the starting point). Go through the gate at the south-eastern corner of the car park. The dramatic Steel Rigg appears immediatel­y to your left. Continue along the path and turn left through a gate. Follow the path downhill, then steeply upwards on a rough stone path, and through a kissing gate at the top.

2. WHIN SILL

You are now standing on the Whin Sill. This layer of hard rock was created 295 million years ago, when magma was forced between

layers of limestone, sandstone and mudstone, and it cooled in thick sheets of dolerite. This high point gives great views over the surroundin­g mires. These ancient areas of peat bog harbour rare sphagnum mosses and grasses.

From now on it’s a matter of following the wall and the national trail as it dips and rises along Whin Sill. Every Roman mile (a distance of 1,000 paces), you will come across a milecastle, a fortified gateway built to protect weak points along the wall. After 1.6km (one mile), you reach Sycamore Gap, a dip in the landscape with a sycamore tree growing in the middle.

Continue along the trail and, as you climb the dramatic Highshield Crags, you’ll see the glacial Crag Lough to your left.

3. HOUSESTEAD CRAGS

Cross over a farm road and follow the signpost marked ‘National Trail Housestead­s 1½ miles’. Hotbank Farm is on your left; keep to the path uphill. The rocky outcrops here are Hotbank Crags and Cuddy’s Crags.

Follow the wall past Milecastle 37 and go through the woods on Housestead­s Crags.

4. KING’S HILL

At the end of the wood, go through the gate, downhill to the ruins of Housestead­s Roman Fort. From Housestead­s, resume your eastward walk along the wall, over King’s Hill.

5. KING’S WICKET

Where the wall turns north-northeast, turn left through the gate

“THESE ANCIENT AREAS OF PEAT BOGS HARBOUR RARE SPHAGNUM MOSSES”

marked King’s Wicket. This path leads westward, parallel to the wall, and gives you a great view of the escarpment. Looking across Crag Lough, you get the Picts’ view of the wall and the Whin Sill.

Turn left at the road to return to Steel Rigg car park.

Learn more about the history of the area – or refuel with a hot meal – just down the road at The Sill Landscape Discovery Centre in Once Brewed (thesill.org.uk).

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 ??  ?? The Roman wall climbs over the imposing natural ramparts of Steel Rigg
The Roman wall climbs over the imposing natural ramparts of Steel Rigg
 ??  ?? Housestead­s fort once hosted 800 soldiers to guard the Roman empire’s northerly frontier
Housestead­s fort once hosted 800 soldiers to guard the Roman empire’s northerly frontier
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