BEN MORE Argyll & Bute
Sail to the Isle of Mull to summit one of Scotland’s finest peaks
f you’re going to tackle a mountain, you might as well go for something substantial. Ben More – ‘The Big Mountain’ in Gaelic – ticks all the boxes for a challenge, but remains one that’s surmountable for most hill-walkers who have a bit of experience.
Such is the reputation of Ben More that many Munro-baggers only attempt to climb it once they have scaled Scotland’s other 281 peaks over 3,000ft. Because of this status, it is often referred to as ‘the last Munro’.
Getting there is something of an adventure in itself. Catch the ferry to Craignure, then head to the seaweed-strewn shores of Loch na Keal via the small village of Salen. Soon, if you’re lucky with the weather, the alarmingly steep profile of Ben More will hove into view. Park by Tráigh Doire Dhubhaig beach opposite a sign for Benmore Estate.
1. DHISEIG
Take the track up towards Dhiseig, a house among trees. Then, where the track turns left towards the house, continue straight on uphill, following the eastern side of the Abhainn Dhiseig river.
2. GLACIER-SCORED SHORE
It’s worth taking a moment to look behind you at the already widening view. The small island of Eorsa lies in the centre of Loch Na Keal, while further away to the west is Ulva, whose highest peak, Beinn Creagh, reaches 313m.
The summit of Ben More forms part of a specially protected site that stretches to the north-east to include Scarisdale and its lichen and moss-rich woodlands. Look down to the shoreline and you’ll see a coast that is scattered with glacier-scored rocks; these are the best-known examples of their type in Britain. Higher up, the path crosses the burn and continues
over grass to reach the bottom of a scree slope.
3. CHASMS AND CLOUDS
The nature of the mountain now becomes more dramatic as the river rises from a deep chasm. The path trends south-south-east to lead up through boulders and is generally easy to follow.
Be prepared for strong winds as you get higher. Further up, veer east-south-east on Ben More’s western ridge proper – the scene is stunning, with views of Loch na Keal below scurrying clouds. To the left there are steep drops, so stick to the path and be aware that the magnetic rock that forms much of the summit will interfere with compass readings.
4. THE VIEW AT THE TOP
The top of the mountain is marked by a circular stone shelter, the perfect spot to congratulate yourself on having climbed up here all the way from sea level.
The views from the isolated summit are magnificent in all directions. On a good day, you can see Ben Nevis to the north-east and the Mountain of Mourne across the waters of the North Channel in Country Down to the south, along with many of the other Hebridean islands to the south, west and north.
Enjoy the descent back down from the peak, which takes you through the russet-coloured grasses of the lower slopes to provide a beautiful end to a monumental day out.